Victoria Ordóñez

A forgotten wine region awakens

The Montes de Málaga - These are steep, rugged mountains just a few kilometres north of the coastal city. Vines once grew here, making Málaga one of the most famous wine names in Europe. After the phylloxera catastrophe of the late 19th century, the area was afforested and the wine culture was forgotten. Victoria Ordóñez In 2015, the company set out in search of the remaining old Pedro Ximénez-vines. Months of research in small plots were necessary to separate the rare variety from other vines in the mixed old vineyards.

Heroic viticulture

The vineyards of Victoria Ordóñez lie between 800 and 1000 metres above sea level in the Sierra de Málaga Natural Park - despite its proximity to the Mediterranean, the climate here is almost continental with hot days and cool nights. The extremely steep slopes make machinery impossible; even experienced farm workers speak of „heroic viticulture“. The grapes are harvested by hand and taken along narrow paths to Romero, the mule, who transports them to the collection centre. From there, they are transported by van to the winery in Málaga city - the only active bodega within the city limits.

Dry Pedro Ximénez

What Victoria Ordóñez produces is a sensation: dry Pedro Ximénez. Most people only know this grape variety as a syrupy-sweet dessert wine from Jerez. But historically, dry wines of great elegance were produced here in Málaga. Victoria continues this tradition. The grapes are cultivated biodynamically, fermented spontaneously and matured in small French oak barrels. The yields are shockingly low - rarely more than 1000 kilograms per hectare. The result is wines of crystalline clarity, with notes of white flowers, almonds and a mineral aftertaste reminiscent of the slate soils.

Moscatel from the Axarquía

In addition to Pedro Ximénez, Victoria is dedicated to another indigenous grape variety: Moscatel from the upper Axarquía. The vineyards are even higher, almost 1000 metres, in the Sierra Tejeda Natural Park. Here, aromatic white wines are produced that combine the floral intensity of Moscatel with the freshness of the altitude. Together with her son Guillermo, an agricultural engineer, Victoria now cultivates seven hectares of her own land and buys grapes from 30 other winegrowers - a total of 40 hectares under contract.

Garage winery with vision

Founded in 2015, the bodega is located in Málaga city, just minutes from the airport. The 600 square metre winery has small stainless steel tanks that allow each parcel to be vinified separately, as well as French oak barrels that are renewed annually. The concept is based on the „garage wine“ model: precision craftsmanship in small quantities. Victoria learnt her craft from Alois Kracher in Austria, from harvesting to barrel storage. Today, she is one of the few winemakers in Spain who makes wine with her own hands - and brings a forgotten region back onto the wine list. Similarly uncompromising Envínate on Tenerife.