Arneis

Also known as: Bianchetta, Nebbiolo Bianco (historically)

Arneis is one of the most surprising rediscoveries of Roero. Nearly extinct in the 1970s because the variety is temperamental to cultivate and oxidises quickly – too difficult for mass production, too low-yielding for industrial wineries. What remains: a Piedmontese white grape variety with more substance than many Pinot Grigios, but without the heaviness of southern white wines.

Arneis makes sense when winemakers don’t work against the variety. Early harvest, cool fermentation, stainless steel instead of wood – this preserves the character: white flowers, almond, a slight bitterness on the palate reminiscent of unripe pear. Nothing dramatic, but precise.

In the range, Valfaccenda and Vietti demonstrate what is possible with Arneis when the grape isn’t overproduced. Both estates work with old vines in Roero and forgo technical tricks.