In the s e m i c o l o n series, Katharina Salzgeber and Nikolaus Saahs devotedly look behind the undiscovered potential of Gewürztraminer and Riesling. They question our expectations and challenges vis-à-vis winemaking: How does a grape variety change when different approaches to harvest time, processing or ripening are implemented? Like the semicolon, a point at which the writers and readers introduce their own interpretations and styles, their wines free themselves from more rigid rules and inspire critical follow-up and questioning.
The maturation process of the s e m i c o l o n Riesling was done by the must of 70% and mash of 30%. The ten-month ageing in already used wood was accompanied by no clarification, stabilisation, filtration or sulphur addition.
The s e m i c o l o n Riesling shines in a deep golden yellow. Its initial aroma contains elements of dried meadow herbs, apple, apple peel and wine yeast, suggesting an irrepressible profundity that demands a decanter. With the addition of oxygen, additional aromas of quince emerge and floral notes of honeysuckle, chamomile and elderflower emerge.
On the palate, this wine appears precise, dry and with yeasty-spicy notes that indicate innovative winemaking. The result is an incredibly refreshing taste that blends harmoniously with a purist cuisine that is close to nature and strongly influenced by herbs.
As an alternative to the original food recommendations, I offer the following: Try a quiche with wild garlic pesto and chard, bruschetta with rocket salad, trout, goat cheese and lemon thyme or wild herb polenta dumplings filled with roasted dandelion, dried tomatoes and ground beef.
Nikolaihof Wachau, Nikolaigasse 3, 3512 Mautern, Austria. Organic certificate: AT-BIO-302