Graue Freyheit 2021

Tasting note by Christoph Raffelt from 08.09.2022, Copyright Christoph Raffelt

The cuvée Grey Freedom is composed of 50 % Pinot Blanc, 20 % Pinot Gris and 15 % Chardonnay and Neuburger each from the crystalline slate and quartzite soils on the Joiser Hackelsberg and the chalky and slatey eastern slopes of the Leithagebirge from the top sites Breitenbrunner Edelgraben and Windener Alter Berg. The must was fermented spontaneously and left on the skins for about two weeks, after which it was slowly pressed with a basket press. This was followed by 17 months of ageing in 600-litre cellar amphorae and in large used wood. The wine was bottled unfiltered and without the addition of sulphur. Please turn the bottle beforehand to integrate the sediment into the wine. Ideally, the wine should be caraffed.

Slightly cloudy salmon orange with bright reflections

Already at the beginning, this avant-garde Burgundy shows its depth and aromatic density. Acacia and orange blossom present themselves extensively. Chamomile and rooibos clearly go in the direction of tea. The extraction leaves clear traces. A touch of honey and fresh resin give it additional depth and character. Orange zest, blood orange and grapefruit give it a tart fruitiness that sets accents. Cassis and mulberry give it a berry nuance at the end. Its present, reductive character gives it a mysterious note. Wild and exciting at the same time.

On the palate, it shows great elegance and complexity. The Graue Freyheit from 2021 is not wild or impetuous at all. It rests in itself, just as its producers are situated in terms of character. Cool and full of finesse, it spreads out on the palate. Its minerality is very well combined with the fruit and spice. A fine tannin gives it substance and backbone. In the finish, it shows its nutty side to the full in combination with some smoke.