Riesling Marienburg Grosses Gewächs „Fahrlay“ 2021

The Fahrlay vineyard site lies directly adjacent to the Pünderich ferry landing and is the only area of Pünderich Marienburg where blue slate dominates. Blue slate is considerably harder than grey and red slate. The vines struggle in their youth until their roots have penetrated deep into the water-bearing cracks of the slate plates. The grapes are harvested fully ripe in several passes, with botrytis grapes selected for late harvest or selected harvest wines. Pressing is carried out with gentle pressure but over an extended pressing time. Following natural sedimentation, the must is spontaneously fermented in the traditional Fuder. Fermentation typically continues into July or beyond. The result is extremely mineral wines that often appear angular and cool in their youth, then present themselves with increasing complexity as they mature and demonstrate considerable ageing potential.

Luminous, pale straw yellow with green tinges

In 2021, Clemens Busch has achieved something truly outstanding. The Großen Gewächse display themselves with sensational finesse and elegance. Its ethereal nose, characterised by herbs from near and far, runs like a golden thread through the collection. Marienburg Fahrlay Riesling radiates energy. Lemongrass, wheat grass and abundant sorrel and lemon balm pour from the glass. Eucalyptus and peppermint complement this beautifully and simultaneously provide a distinctly cooler note. Wood sorrel and garden cress lend a certain spiciness that comes across as both earthy and nutty. A delicate hint of white peach and nashi pear emerges. Only restrained, but with patience developing in increasing intensity, artichoke and fennel unfold, but above all fresh peas in the glass. Utterly captivating, compelling nose.

On the palate, it channels the impressions gained into a fine, dense stream. Compact and characterised by a magnificent, appealing phenolic structure, it makes clear how energetic it and its origin are. The meticulous, enormously commendable work in the vineyard pays dividends here. Tactile purity. Full of vibration and radiance. The fruit is entirely secondary. Its herbal spiciness plays a major role. Juicy and stimulating in equal measure. Its finesse and elegant structure set a new benchmark for me. Absolutely persistent and defining on the finish.