Riesling Marienburg Grosses Gewächs “Fahrlay” 2021

The Fahrlay area lies directly next to the Pünderich ferry landing stage and is the only area of the Pünderich Marienburg where blue slate dominates. Blue slate is significantly harder than grey and red slate. The vines have a hard time growing when they are young, until their roots have penetrated the deep, watery crevices of the slate. The grapes are harvested fully ripe in several passes, Bortrytis grapes are selected for late harvest or Auslese. Pressing is done with low pressure but over a long pressing time. After natural sedimentation, the must is fermented spontaneously in traditional vats. Fermentation usually lasts until July or longer. The result is extremely mineral wines that often appear edgy and cool in their youth, but then become increasingly complex as they mature and show great ageing potential.

Bright, light straw yellow with green inclusions

In 2021, Clemens Busch succeeded in creating a great wine. The Grosse Gewächse wines are sensationally delicate and elegant. His ethereal nose, marked by herbs from near and far, runs like a red thread through the collection. Marienburg Fahrlay Riesling radiates with energy. Lemongrass, wheatgrass and plenty of sorrel and lemon balm flow from the glass. Eucalyptus and peppermint complement this idea wonderfully and at the same time provide a distinctly cooler note. Wood sorrel and garden cress lend a certain spiciness that is both earthy and nutty. There is a delicate hint of white peach and a little nashi pear. Artichoke, fennel and, above all, fresh peas develop in the glass, but with patience in increasing form. Totally exciting, gripping nose.

On the palate, it bundles the impressions gained into a fine, dense jet. Compact and characterised by a grandiose, appealing phenolic structure, it makes clear how energetic it and its origin are. The elaborate, enormously commendable work in the vineyard pays off here. Pure feel. Full of vibration and radiance. The fruit is absolutely secondary. Its herbal spiciness plays big. Juicy and animating in equal measure. Its finesse and elegant structure is a new reference for me. Absolutely long-lasting and impressive in the aftertaste.