Riesling Karthäuserhofberg Kabinett VDP Grosse Lage 2021

The Karthäuserhof is a magical place. And not primarily because of its idyllic location. It is the eighth oldest vineyard in the world and has been the cradle of world-famous Rieslings for centuries. It was founded in 1335 by Carthusian monks, who received the estate as a gift from Elector Balduin of Luxembourg and ran it as a winery until secularisation. The Karthäuserhof has been privately owned by the same family since 1811.

The Karthäuserhofberg monopole vineyard covers almost 20 hectares and faces south-south-west. It lies at an altitude of up to 254 metres above sea level and has a slope gradient of up to 55% in the steepest parcels. The microclimate just before the Ruwer flows into the Moselle and the soil characterised by pink-copper-coloured Devonian clay slate have shaped the Rieslings from here for decades.

Kabinett could not be more classic in its character. 9% alcohol by volume is offset by 30g/l residual sugar and 10.4g/l acidity. Clearly a Kabinett at the lower end of the residual sugar range with plenty of edge.

Naturally, the grapes are harvested by hand. Fermentation is controlled in stainless steel tanks. It is then left to mature on the lees for six to eight months until racking.

Sparkling, pale straw yellow with a light rim and green reflections

The nose of this extreme Kabinett has a very typical aroma. The cool year 2021 is perfectly represented. A hint of ice candy provides ethereal freshness and a cool presence. It is clearly on the cool, ethereal and spicy side. The fruit only plays a subordinate role. Kaffir lime and a hint of bergamot stand out. A hint of green apple next to white peach is far in the background. The stage clearly belongs to other components. Mint, basil and nettle are dominant. Lemongrass, lemon balm and sorrel also flow from the glass. No kitsch, pure refreshment.

It appears totally balanced despite the extreme values. And it is even more stunning despite the very restrained nose. Clear and clean, it prepares its way. The residual sweetness is perceptible, but is washed away by its concise acidity structure. This animates enormously and provides it with drinking flow. The stimulation of salivation is unrivalled and this always stands for great drinking pleasure and the highest quality. It remains shy and refreshing on the finish. The combination of pure minerality with this outstanding interplay of sweetness and acidity is exemplary.