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Following the interesting article in the FAZ on Sunday, in which many rosés from Living Wines are recommended, I thought I would also share my opinion on the subject of „rosé wines“.
Just a few days ago, I served some of these „divisive“ wines during a wine club, and the subsequent discussion was really interesting. I provoked a little and asked our guests what they thought makes a rosé wine.
Quite interesting: the first approach was to define what it is not. It is not as fresh as a white wine, not as heavy as a red wine. Well, a good start.
Some pointed out that they normally don’t drink rosé wine. Well, that is of course a matter of taste and a question of colour harmony.
A man told me that in France rosé wines are often referred to as „vin du piscine“ and are drunk generously with ice by the pool. After all the white wine spritzers I’ve seen in recent years, nothing can really surprise me anymore.
I could quote a few more sentences, but the main point is already clear: rosé wines are not to be taken seriously. They only gain some respect for a few summer months, like a group of shooting stars in the firmament of „real“ wines. I’m not the first to say this, but it seems we need to repeat it more often: this is not true! There are many great rosé wines out there.
Before I share my impressions of some wines from our selection with you, I would like to return to the question asked at the beginning: what makes a wine a rosé wine?
Perhaps in doing so we will find out why so many people think that rosé is a kind of simple wine, only to be drunk in summer.
Colour
We classify wines by their colour: white, red, rosé and orange. But colours already have their meanings. Rosé (pink) is mainly associated with the feminine. I personally stand against the use of „feminine“ and „masculine“ to define wines, but how often have I heard that rosé wines are most popular with women? Some wineries even emphasise this in their advertising. The wine world is not immune to patriarchy and all its stereotypes. If the wine is pink, it’s a girl’s wine. And if it’s something for girls, it must be frivolous, simple, light(-minded), etc. It’s time to put an end to these stereotypes. Both for women and for wines. Look into your glass and you will see a palette ranging from pale pink through a delicate salmon tone to an intense, almost red colour.
Aroma
If you don’t serve your rosé ice-cold or with ice cubes, you will likely discover a great variety of bouquets. Sometimes more subtle, sometimes very intense. The temperature changes as your wine sits in the glass, and so do the aromas. Try to find the right temperature for your wine.
Taste
Similar to aroma, the palate needs the right temperature to explore the full flavour spectrum in a glass of wine. And „ice-cold“ is not always the right one. I find it very interesting to analyse the texture, the consistency of the liquid. I’ve had some wonderful surprises in this regard with rosé wines. I fell in love with Les Vignes Métissés from Roc des Anges, mainly because of its wonderfully delicate, silky texture, to name just one example.
Technical
If you press any grape, the juice will be white. The colour comes from the time it spends in contact with the grape skins. Press a white grape and remove the skins immediately: you have a white wine. Do it again, but leave the skins in contact for a few days or even months: orange wine. Now take your red grape, press it and remove the skins: white wine again! (In Champagne they would call it Blanc de Noirs). Leave the red skins there for a few days: red wine. Now try to be faster and let the juice obtained from red grapes come into contact with the skins for only a few hours: finally your rosé wine.
The Pinot Noir that you love so much when it is used for some top Burgundies can also be used for some rosé wines. And there are winemakers who take this process very seriously. There is a world to discover without prejudice. Let us begin.
Château de Pibarnon Rosé AOC 2022
The Bandol wine region, where Château de Pibarnon is located, is the rosé region par excellence. Bandol is one of the villages on the French Riviera, in Provence. The Mediterranean climate guarantees warm growing conditions for the grapes, whilst the mountains serve as protection against cold winds.
This blend of Mourvèdre and Cinsault reveals all its power immediately on the nose. Ripe stone fruits, pear and lemon zest are brought together by some creamy, almost sweet notes of vanilla and spices. The creamy, juicy sensation continues on the palate, whilst tannins and spices dance on the tongue.
This is a complex, serious wine. Its long finish will transport you into a peaceful meditative state, whilst you smile at the horizon.
Pranzegg
MIAU! Vino Rosato Frizzante 2022
In South Tyrol, Pranzegg draws attention with this rosé right from the name… When you open this pét-nat, you will embrace your close friend and start to dance, just like the two cats on the label.
The colour is an intense pink/light red, with silky cloudiness that shows its unfiltered nature. The foam is generous and loud. The first nose brings hints of hay, followed by a rich bouquet of flowers, green apples and a fresh alpine breeze that constantly swirls the aromas around. On the palate it is generous and fresh, moving between the crispness of green apple and the juicy abundance of strawberries.
Beware! The bottle will empty quickly.
I Vigneri di Salvo Foti
Vinudilice Rosato 2021
Salvo Foti hardly needs any introduction. He is one of the protagonists of the renaissance of Sicilian wine, particularly on Mount Etna. This rosé confirms the connection to tradition and the land that are typical of his „I Vigneri“ project.
The wine is a blend of at least 10 different grapes, red and white, all growing together and harvested and pressed together. This mixed harvest was common in the past in several regions of Italy.
The colour is salmon pink, with bright, crystalline reflections. The nose is an endless journey between black cherries, wild berries, oranges, aromatic herbs, spices and the seductive minerality that only volcanic soil can provide. On the palate it is fresh, precise and clear. A perfectly integrated acidity and a delightful saltiness form the vibrant backbone of this wine. Any further description would only disturb the connection to the soul of Sicily…
An unexpected, unique rosé wine.
Here you will find the entire rosé wine selection
BY LIVING WINES
Text: Jonathan Gobbi
Photo Credits:
Various colourful flowers in plastic container with water: Jill Burrow / Pexels