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Following the interesting article in the FAZ am Sonntag, in which many rosés from Living Wines are recommended, I thought I would also share my opinion on the subject of “rosé wines”.
Only a few days ago, I served some of these “divisive” wines during a wine club, and the ensuing discussion was truly fascinating. I provoked things a little and asked our guests what, in their opinion, defines a rosé wine.
Interesting indeed: the first approach was to define what it is not. It is not as fresh as a white wine, not as heavy as a red wine. Well, a good start.
Some pointed out that they do not normally drink rosé wine. Well, that is naturally a matter of taste and a question of colour harmony.
One man told me that in France rosé wines are often referred to as “vin du piscine” and drunk liberally with ice by the pool. After all the Weissweinschorlen I have seen over the past few years, nothing can really surprise me any more.
I could quote a few more sentences, but the main point is already clear: rosé wines are not serious wines. They only gain a little prestige for a few summer months, like a cluster of shooting stars in the firmament of “real” wines. I am not the first to say this, but it seems we need to repeat it more often: that is not true! There are many great rosé wines out there.
Before I share my impressions of some wines from our selection with you, I would like to return once more to the question posed at the beginning: what makes a wine a rosé wine?
Perhaps in doing so we will discover why so many people think that rosé is a kind of simple wine, only fit for drinking in summer.
Colour
We classify wines according to their colour: white, red, rosé and orange. But colours already carry their own meanings. Rosé (pink) is mainly associated with the feminine. Personally, I oppose the use of “feminine” and “masculine” to define wines, but how often have I heard that rosé wines are most popular among women? Some wineries even emphasise this in their advertising. The wine world is not immune to patriarchy and all its stereotypes. If the wine is pink, it is a girl’s wine. And if it is something for girls, it must be frivolous, simple, light(-hearted), etc. It is time to put an end to these stereotypes. Both for women and for wines. Look into your glass and you will see a palette ranging from pale pink through a delicate salmon hue to an intense, almost red colour.
Aroma
If you do not serve your rosé ice-cold or with ice cubes, you will probably discover a wide variety of bouquets. Sometimes more subtle, sometimes very intense. The temperature changes while your wine is in the glass, and so do the aromas. Try to find the right temperature for your wine.
Taste
Much as with the aroma, the palate needs the right temperature to explore the entire spectrum of flavours in a glass of wine. And “ice-cold” is not always the right one. I find it very interesting to analyse the texture, the consistency of the liquid. I have had some wonderful surprises in this respect with rosé wines. I fell in love with Les Vignes Métissés by Roc des Anges, mainly because of its wonderfully delicate, silky texture, to give just one example.
Technical details
If you press any grape, the juice will be white. The colour comes from the time it spends in contact with the grape skins. Press a white grape and remove the skins immediately: you have a white wine. Do it again, but leave the skins in contact for a few days or even months: orange wine. Now take your red grape, press it and take the skins away: white wine again! (In Champagne, one would call it Blanc de Noirs). Leave the red skins there for a few days: red wine. Now try to be quicker, and leave the juice obtained from red grapes in contact with the skins for just a few hours: finally, your rosé wine.
The Pinot Noir you love so much when used for some top Burgundies can also be used for certain rosé wines. And there are winemakers who take this process very seriously. There is a world to discover without prejudice. Let us begin.
Château de Pibarnon Rosé AOC 2022
The Bandol wine region, where Château de Pibarnon is located, is the rosé region par excellence. Bandol is one of the villages on the French Riviera, in Provence. The Mediterranean climate guarantees warm growing conditions for the grapes, while the mountains serve as protection against the cold winds.
This blend of Mourvèdre and Cinsault immediately reveals all its power on the nose. Ripe stone fruits, pear and lemon zest are brought together by some creamy, almost sweet notes of vanilla and spices. The creamy, juicy sensation continues on the palate, while tannins and spices dance on the tongue.
This is a complex, serious wine. Its long finish will put you into a peaceful, meditative state as you smile at the horizon.
Cirelli
Vino Frizzante Rosato
From Abruzzo comes Cirelli’s Vino Frizzante Rosato, a biodynamically produced sparkling wine that embodies precisely this carefree conviviality. Shimmering onion-skin pink, it offers aromas of wildflowers and fresh raspberries; its delicate effervescence makes it a wine to open when you want to dance rather than analyse.
The colour is an intense pink/light red, with a silky haze that reveals its unfiltered nature. The mousse is generous and loud. The first nose brings hints of hay, followed by a rich bouquet of flowers, green apples and a fresh Alpine breeze that constantly swirls the aromas around. On the palate it is generous and fresh, moving between the crispness of green apple and the juicy lushness of strawberries.
Warning! The bottle will empty quickly.
I Vigneri di Salvo Foti
Vinudilice Rosato 2021
Salvo Foti really needs no introduction. He is one of the protagonists of the renaissance of Sicilian wine, particularly on Mount Etna. This rosé confirms the connection to tradition and the land that is typical of his “I Vigneri” project.
The wine is a blend of at least 10 different grape varieties, red and white, all of which grow together and are harvested and pressed together. This field blend was common in several regions of Italy in the past.
The colour is salmon pink, with bright, crystalline reflections. The nose is an endless journey between black cherries, wild berries, oranges, aromatic herbs, spices and the seductive minerality that only volcanic soil can provide. On the palate it is fresh, precise and clear. Perfectly integrated acidity and a lovely salinity form the vibrant backbone of this wine. Any further description would only disturb the connection to the soul of Sicily…
An unexpected, unique rosé wine.
Here you will find the entire rosé wine range
FROM LIVING WINES
Text: Jonathan Gobbi
Photo credits:
Various colourful flowers in plastic container with water: Jill Burrow / Pexels