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IT Beaujolais.
Beaujolais is almost synonymous with Gamay (or, more precisely, Gamay noir à Jus blanc), the region’s principal grape variety. It accounts for 98% of total production.
Beaujolais is a wonderful (and often misunderstood) wine region north of Lyon, encompassing part of the northern Rhône area and overlapping with the southern reaches of Saône-et-Loire in Burgundy.
Gamay
Now understood to be a cross between Pinot Noir and the ancient white variety Gouais, the grape yields a generous harvest and ripens two weeks earlier than Pinot Noir. This results in fruity wines with low alcohol and tannin levels, high acidity, and a light to medium body.
It was a fortunate encounter between Beaujolais and Gamay. The variety had itself been poorly treated, having been expelled from Burgundy as early as 1395 to make way for the more celebrated and valuable Pinot Noir. Pushed southwards, it found in Beaujolais the granite soils and warmer temperatures in which it thrives.
Philip the Bold
The Burgundian ruler famously banned the cultivation of Gamay in the Côte-d’Or by decree in 1395, citing its harmful effects on human health. He even described the grape as “dishonourable” (“l’infâme et déloyal Gamay”).
This displacement actually benefited Gamay, as it thrives even more on the granite slopes of Beaujolais than on the limestone escarpments of the Côte-d’Or.
Also worth mentioning is a small production of Chardonnay, which, owing to the nearly 100 communes in the north of Beaujolais that overlap with the Maconnais area of Saint-Véran, is typically marketed under the better-known appellations of Mâcon-Villages or Saint-Véran.
Topography and Soils
The wine region is divided into two parts, as reflected in the distribution of its various appellations.
Bas Beaujolais in the south is predominantly flat, with rich soils of sandstone and clay. This is where the notorious Beaujolais Nouveau is produced, made under the AOC Beaujolais.
In the northern part, broadly centred around the town of Villefranche, lies the greater part of the Beaujolais-Villages AOC and the Cru Beaujolais AOC. Here the soils consist primarily of schist and granite, with some limestone.
The Crus
Within the AOC Cru Beaujolais, there are genuine and still underrated gems of French viticulture, spread across 10 areas (in Beaujolais, the term “cru” refers to an area rather than an individual vineyard):
Brouilly, Régnié and Chiroubles produce lighter wines; Côte de Brouilly (the higher-lying slopes of the extinct volcano Mount Brouilly), Fleurie and Saint-Amour yield medium-bodied wines.
The other four crus offer full-bodied wines that can be enjoyed between four and ten years after the harvest: Chénas, Juliénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent.
Old Gamay Vines in Juliénas
Juliénas is one of the most diverse areas in the Beaujolais region. It encompasses granite soils to the west, old alluvial soils to the east, and some sandy soils with a clay content of up to 30 per cent.
Further below, we explore two wines from Juliénas in greater detail.
Two Wines Compared
A brief look at the Cru Juliénas from the estates Bret Brothers and Romanesca. We explore two different (yet each exceptionally fine) vintages, 2018 and 2020.
ROMANESCA
Les Fouillouses 2018, Juliénas
The 2018 vintage was very well balanced between a wet winter and a hot, dry summer. Thanks to the good water reserves built up in the first part of the year, the wines are fresh and lively with a slightly lower alcohol content.
The Romanesca “Les Fouillouses” 2018 fully confirms expectations, presenting a deep ruby-red wine that, given a little time, opens on the nose with fresh notes of sage and orange, followed by blackberry jam, black cherry jam, violet and wild rose.
The palate is traversed by a broad acidity that balances alcohol and tannins beautifully. Notes of blackcurrant, red roses and a hint of vanilla and marzipan on the finish.
Personally, I am very curious to revisit this bottle in 2024 and 2026.
BRET BROTHERS
Climat La Bottière 2020, Juliénas
The 2020 vintage was equally outstanding, though certainly more challenging, marked by severe frost in April, a very hot July and a rainy second half of August. The crus of the region were not greatly affected, however, and the rain was most welcome as relief after the intense heat. The result is wines that are fresh yet concentrated.
The Bret Brothers’ “La Bottière” 2022 expresses this idea of concentration beautifully, opening with a seductively inviting nose: sweet cherries, raspberries and lusciously ripe plums, underpinned by floral tones of rose and violet, fresh meadow herbs and a hint of liquorice.
On the palate it is warm and balsamic, with a delicate acidity supporting a long, spicy finish. Here we find forest berry jam and black pepper once again, alongside cinnamon, Virginia tobacco, dried plum and coffee.
Even now it is incredibly pleasurable and seductive. Although it can certainly benefit from further bottle ageing, it will be very difficult to exercise patience.
Beaujolais offers the full spectrum of affordable red wines – from easy-drinking picnic companions to complex terroir wines.
Text and wine expertise: Jonathan Gobbi
Photos: Michael McKechnie and Weekend Wayfarers under Creative Commons 2.0
Copyright: Taits UG, LebendigeWeine.de