The Zen of the Panettone Gastronomico

Parents think about how to fit the whole family in one room.
Children check (expensive) flights for the journey home.
Couples buy lovely gifts for each other.
Friends decide who among them will host dinner (and the subsequent party).
Ah, the Christmas season!

I may sound a bit cold-hearted now, but let me say one thing:
When I think of Christmas, I think of food and wine.
A lot of food!

I’m a child of the eighties. Something that perfectly represents my idea of Christmas is called Panettone Gastronomico. It’s a homage to opulence, opulence in the style of the eighties.

Panettone Gastronomico

Imagine a savoury panettone. A soft bread in the shape and size of a panettone.
Now you slice it horizontally and fill the various layers with savoury delights…

Mayonnaise and prawns? Excellent!
Salami? A classic!
Grilled vegetables? Something wholesome!

And so on, for, let’s say, between six and eight layers.
After that, you take a very sharp knife and slice it, this time vertically, so that small triangles are created. Little sandwiches.
The concept of Panettone Gastronomico sounds a bit indulgent, but it’s great fun and a dish with a sense of family. Discussion about the fillings, hands reaching for a piece, laughter over unsuccessful cuts. It’s a communal affair. It’s meant to be shared.

Sorry, I got a bit carried away… Let’s talk about wine.

I can’t count how many times wine has saved my life at family dinners.
Family dinners that felt like a sitting marathon at the dining table.
Sometimes pouring a glass was an excuse to get closer to a family member I hadn’t seen in a long time.
Sometimes it was a nice distraction from boring topics.
By the end of dinner, wine was certainly one of the reasons why I had a broad smile on my face.

I’d like to suggest a selection of wines that can accompany an entire dinner. Yes, even one with Panettone Gastronomico!

Here is my feast of excess – to share.

This time my list doesn’t start with the aperitif, but with the wine you can drink while cooking or whilst waiting for your guests to arrive. And off we go.

Cinque Campi Particella 128
From Emilia-Romagna with love.
Honest, direct, uncomplicated and at the same time incredibly refined.
A good friend you’re happy to invite for a chat.
Simply open it whilst cooking and offer your first guests a glass. A wine that will convince your grandfather, your wine-connoisseur friend („You like indigenous grape varieties, don’t you?“) and your nephew who only drinks Pét-Nat (yes, they weren’t invented in 2020…).

Tarlant Zero Rosé Brut Nature
Right, everyone’s seated at the table now.
The vol-au-vents have been passed around.
It’s time to get things properly underway. There’s no better way to kick off a celebration than by opening a bottle of Champagne.
Tarlant is a family winery in the heart of the Vallée de la Marne, in Épernay.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. That’s all there is to it. „Zero“ means without dosage here. This is a bone-dry Rosé. It doesn’t matter if you’ve gone a bit overboard with the mayonnaise or butter in the puff pastry – this Champagne cleanses the palate with every sip with wonderfully crisp acidity, whilst the delicate fruit of Pinot Noir tickles your tongue. I guarantee you that more than one of your guests will admire the unique colour and the perlage.

Bret Brothers Pouilly-Fuissé Climat „En Carementrant“
After the excitement of the first bubbles, we should drink something to calm the palate (but not too much!). It’s time for a warm, comforting feeling. Perhaps a filled pasta is coming to the table.
With a bit of Chardonnay to accompany it. I bet you also have a friend who doesn’t like Chardonnay. Then let us convince him with this one.
Hand-picked grapes from Burgundy, specifically from the top location of the Côte Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé. A perfectly balanced wine between creamy texture and minerality.
Juiciness and citrus notes dance together. The oak notes fade into the background and merely support the fine texture of the wine.

Vietti Barolo DOCG Castiglione
This bottle should be opened at least a couple of hours before serving. Perhaps you’ll take a sip straight after you’ve uncorked it. You’ll be able to entertain your guests with the incredible development of this wine.
After pouring this wine, it will probably go quiet around you. Don’t worry, that’s completely normal. The seductive power of this Barolo can enchant anyone.
The nose is already so complex that you need a few minutes to take it in.
Violets, sour cherry, plum, liquorice and nougat. Just to name a few of the aromas. On the palate, it’s simply sublime. Fresh with perfectly integrated ripe tannins.
Perhaps the conversation will become a little more intimate now and the feelings a little stronger.

Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Trie Speciale Sélection de Grains Nobles 2006
All good things must come to an end. But our ending can be a sweet one.
Probably some cheeks are flushed by now, eyes a little watery. Someone is thinking about leaving or would rather not drink anything else.
Fetch this little jewel from the fridge now, show off its amber colour and everyone will immediately change their mind!

Zind-Humbrecht is an absolute legend and demonstrates its full prowess with this dessert wine. Few sweet wines can match this complexity: with a multi-layered nose of caramelised nuts, candied dates, dark tobacco, damp earth and more. But what is truly remarkable is the acidity and minerality that merge with the concentrated sweetness in your mouth.
Now there is still time for one last conversation and one last glass.

Wishing you a wonderful Christmas & Hanukkah Sameach!

Text & Wine Expertise: Jonathan Gobbi
Illustration: Ananda Costca