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IT Italy is a land of poets and we love our little jokes. The word Dolcetto means in Italian the little sweet one. So far so good. The problem is that the wine is dry and not sweet at all.
There are two theories about the etymology of the name: «Dolcetto» can be derived from duzet or duset, the Piedmontese dialect name for the gentle hills on which the vines grow.
According to this theory, the first document about Dolcetto dates from 1593 in Dogliani (Piedmont), which reports a harvest of Dozzetti. This document would also attest to the origin of the grape in Piedmont, from where it spread to Liguria (under the name Ormeasco) and further into Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy.
The second theory sees the reason for the name in the contrast with the other varieties of the region.
Imagine you were in Piedmont and tasting some wines. You’ve just taken a generous sip of Barbera with its vibrant acidity, and now you have a Dolcetto on your tongue. Doesn’t that taste much softer?
The term Dolcetto thus means something like friendly or soft and does not refer to the residual sugar of the wine.
Dolcetto also played a role in the spread of one of the most famous Piedmontese dishes: Bagna Càuda. The wine was the medium of exchange with nearby Liguria to obtain the sardines, which are the main ingredient of the dish.
Yes, Barolo is on everyone’s lips, but when you need someone to drive to the sea and bring food to the table, you ask the gentle, friendly Dolcetto.
Focus: Dolcetto d’Alba
It would take too long to analyse all the forms this grape variety can take in the different terroirs, but we simply want to get closer to the two wineries that I have tasted from our range. A small example of how even one and the same grape from the same vintage and the same appellation can have a completely different character.
Dolcetto d’Alba DOC is a Denominazione of the Langhe, which lies on the hills around Alba and encompasses 25 municipalities in the province of Cuneo and one (Coazzolo) in the province of Asti. Some vineyards also overlap with those of Barolo and Barbaresco. The soils are sandy, chalky and tuffaceous, making this DOC area one of the highest quality for this grape variety.
The wines of Dolcetto d’Alba share with the other Dolcetto wines a juicy fruit character, low acidity, soft tannins and a slightly bitter almond flavour. A special feature of this region are some floral aromas.
CHIARA BOSCHIS
Dolcetto d’Alba 2020 (Magnum)
Chiara Boschis’ Dolcetto d’Alba, whose grapes come from three different vineyard sites in Monforte d’Alba (Ravera di Monforte, Le Coste and Mosconi), is a magnificent representative of the terroir: the very first bouquet is characterised by notes of geraniums, poppies and hay, followed by white pepper, blackcurrants and spinach leaves.
On the palate it is truly juicy with notes of blackcurrants and blackberries, with a calm acidity that leaves a spicy sensation on the tongue and plays with silky tannins. The finish is round and bitter, as it should be.
It is a perfect companion for every day and pairs well with traditional filled pasta, salumi and roasted chicken. But honestly, I would much prefer to drink it during the last round of cards after dinner.
SOTTIMANO
Bric del Salto 2020 Dolcetto d’Alba DOC
“Bric del Salto” was the name of the first Dolcetto vineyard that Sottimano purchased in 1970, but today the wine is a blend from 3 old vineyards in the Neive area: Cottà, Basarin and San Cristoforo. Fermentation and maceration on the skins for 20-25 days, unfiltered.
On the nose it is very elegant with notes of raspberries, violets, juniper, mint and a reminiscence of dry rocks on a mountain path. On the palate this mineral freshness is confirmed with a subtle yet vibrant acidity that harmonises perfectly with fresh tannins. Again notes of raspberries, redcurrants, pomegranate, mountain herbs and a bitter finish of fresh almonds.
Incredibly drinkable and refreshing, it reveals from the first sip the reasons that have made Dolcetto one of the most drunk wines in everyday Piedmontese life. This is the bottle I want to uncork after a long hike to enjoy the view of the mountains.
Dolcetto 101
It is not easy to define Dolcetto, as it is incredibly versatile.
There are 12 different Denominazioni that create a broad spectrum of identities, from fresh and light-drinking to deep and austere.
To get an overview, one can say that Dolcetto is an intense, fruity everyday wine with low alcohol and acidity. We find aromas of plums, blackberries, liquorice and a very pronounced finish with bitter almond notes. It has no long ageing potential and is generally drunk young. Exceptions exist – as they always do in the wine world.
It grows on hillsides between 250 and 600m above sea level, but also at 700m above sea level, preferably on calcareous marl soils. Dolcetto ripens relatively early, making it suitable for cool regions or north-facing slopes.
It is one of the most widespread grape varieties in Piedmont, but is also cultivated in Liguria, Lombardy and even in Australia.
Written by Jonathan Gobbi