Gevrey-Chambertin “En Billard” AOP 2021

Wine description for Gevrey-Chambertin “En Billard” AOP 2021 by Jérôme Galeyrand

There are winemakers who force Burgundy into the straitjacket of technology — and then there is Jérôme Galeyrand, a former cheese seller from the Loire, who started in 2002 with a twentieth of a hectare and today ranks among the most exciting producers on the Côte de Nuits. His Gevrey-Chambertin “En Billard”, from a village site immediately adjacent to his cellar, is a Pinot Noir that speaks softly yet says a great deal.

Colour & appearance

A transparent crimson — bright, clear, just as one would expect from a Burgundy of this style that has nothing to hide.

Nose

Crystal-clear and linear: tart berries meet notes of lightly stewed wild berries, underpinned by a subtle touch of fine wood. An aroma of ripeness without opulence, more sketch than oil painting — and precisely that makes it so appealing.

Palate

Still reserved, almost shy: the wild berry fruit is sensed rather than grasped, and the tannins still feel somewhat unformed. On the attack, a vibrant acidity announces itself before discreetly receding towards the finish. In its place, spicy tones come to the fore — above all liquorice, lending the wine depth and a dark, earthy dimension.

Finish

Spice-driven and increasingly complex; the fruit steps back, while liquorice and fine spice notes define the close. A wine that deserves time.

Terroir & origin

The vines in the En Billard site were planted in 1983 and grow not far from the estate’s cellar in Gevrey-Chambertin. Galeyrand farms just 5.25 hectares in total on the Côte de Nuits; his credo is terroir transparency without oenological intervention.

Variety & vinification

Pure Pinot Noir, 70% destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts. 24 months’ ageing in used oak barrels (228 l) with up to 25% new wood. No fining, no enzymes, minimal sulphur — only around 2,100 bottles were produced.

Food recommendations

Splendid with jugged hare with onions, bacon and potato-celeriac purée, rolled suckling pig roast with fennel and saffron, or a Moroccan plum tagine with harissa and couscous.

Special features

Its rarity: just a few thousand bottles of a Gevrey-Chambertin vinified by a self-taught winemaker who rose from a cheese shop to earning a star in the Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France. A Burgundy for the patient — youthful and closed now, with considerable potential for development.