Benoit Lesuffleur's family has been growing apples and pears in Normandy for several generations. For about 50 years, they have been selling the yield to large cider producers. Benoit Lesuffleur, just 30 years old, is a wine broker in Paris. Among others, he represents the Fourrier, Henri Germain and Champagne Tarlant houses in the Paris trade and in gastronomy. From Benoit Tarlant, his namesake, he knows very well how top champagne is produced, so he had the goal to vinify cider on this level, too. However, his family was strictly against it for years. But now he has convinced them. His ciders are actually produced according to the traditional method from twelve different sweet, sour and tannin-strong apple varieties. Of course, the work is done by hand, the 16 hectares of land are in conversion to organic or biodynamic cultivation, the apple juice is spontaneously fermented, and after blending the different varieties, the cider stays for twelve months. sur lattes.
Friardel is a plantation in the Norman commune of Friardel in the Calvados region. It was acquired by Benoit's grandfather in the 1960s. The half-stems already existing there were quite old at that time and are now gradually replaced by Benoit, whereas the share of old stems is always to predominate. The cuvée consists of 50 % of the bitter varieties Mettais and Frèquin, 36 % of the bittersweet varieties Binet rouge and Bisquet, and 14 % of high acid varieties like Rambeau and René Martin. They grow on a soil of blue flint with a chalky-chalky subsoil.
dark, slightly cloudy golden yellow, tending towards brownish
This cider clearly belongs to the more tart fraction of sparkling apple wines. This is ensured by 50 % tart apple varieties that were used here. It smells of apple juice, of red apple peel, of yeast plait and definitely also of tart and citric spicy hop notes, complemented by earth, pine, stone and a little resin.
On the palate, too, the cider from the old apple trunks of the Friardel plantation is a tart drink whose tart, resinous and finely bitter notes are, however, skilfully countered by fine sweetness and accompanied by acidity. The mousseux of this 2016 cider is quite fine and supportive, the apple flavor clear and absolutely clean without being musty. This is already apple sparkling wine on a very high level.
Food recommendations by Christoph Raffelt:
- Slow cooked guinea fowl with malt manioc chips and fried and spicy plantains (poultry)
(Wildfowlguinea fowl, tropical fruits)
- Baked pork belly with apple sauce
- Muffins with goat cheese, walnuts and yellow beetroot (vegetarian)
(CheeseNuts (nuts), red/yellow beet, Vegetarian dishes)
Lesuffleur, 14 290 La Folletière-Abenon / France