“Steinriese” Oberbergen Bassgeige Spätburgunder VDP Grosse Lage 2021

Since 2018, this vineyard within the Oberbergener Bassgeige has been vinified separately. The exceptionally high iron content in this area clearly distinguishes the wine from its neighbours. The Steinriese vineyard is exposed to the west. The genetic material is based exclusively on Burgundian clones

All Pinot Noirs at Weingut Franz Keller are matured in barriques. For the Erste Lage Oberbergen Bassgeige, the proportion of new wood is low at 10-20%, but even in the GG range, this quota rarely exceeds 35%. In the 2021 vintage, the quota is 40-50% new wood. The Pinot Noir matures in the barrels for 18 months. 

The wine speaks for itself. The quintessence of Fritz Keller. German Pinot Noir is rarely this great.

Brilliant, bright cherry red with a dark centre

The Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs is tantalising and stands majestically above it all. It grabs me with its deep, dark fruit of morello cherries, blackberries, raspberries and sour cherries. Never kitschy, always mature, always serious and appealingly sexy. This is how Pinot Noir is made today. And only a handful of German winemakers, such as the Rings brothers, Sophie Christmann, Julian Huber..., manage to bring this finesse to the bottle.

A hint of strawberry smoothes the waves of extremes. A hint of cold smoke and its linear, chalky impression convey depth, elegance and true greatness. Almond, blackthorn, dark floral accents of wild flowers and pansies. Juniper and green pepper...it is incredibly versatile.

Ethereal nuances, balsamic spice, earthiness... all these attributes have their shares in this wine. It is well balanced and nothing stands out. An equilibrium of Pinot Noir.

The Steinriese parcel within the large Oberbergener Bassgeige vineyard is now rightly planted individually. These vines are destined for greater tasks. On the palate, it shows its perfection with every sip. I find it visibly difficult to refrain from spitting. It waters the mouth. It stimulates sip after sip. Yet it is so delicate and perfect down to the last detail. A rich fruit flavour driven by acidity sets the pace. This extremely elegant, astonishingly cool and subtle moment of wine is phenomenal. You don't want it to end. Shy, delicate, but enormously persistent. It has the penetrating power to explain to the last unsuspecting person just how big, elegant and long this grape variety can be. It is the very best example of this.