The Enselberg represents wines that are already accessible in their youth and bring out the lightness of the Pinot. The site faces Alsace and the Rhine plain, and the surrounding forest provides cool winds. The wine comes from Pinot clones planted in the 1990s on volcanic rock. With a proportion of 30% whole grapes, it was aged in barrique with around 40% of new wood.
Strong ruby red, transparent and clear.
Fritz Keller's 2018 Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs from the Oberrottweiler Enselberg is open-hearted and already very accessible. Filigree with a few wild edges, it smells of black cherries, cranberries and elderberries, the ageing contributes spicy and smoky notes. White pepper and allspice and some citrus in the top note contrast the extract-rich nose with obvious freshness. Large glasses are obligatory, a few years of bottle ageing advisable.
With dancing lightness, the Enselberg represents the lively side of Pinot Noir and Pinot Noir. A highly animating melange flows from the goblet and combines fruit and spice in silky filigree. Black cherry, allspice and juniper are joined by flinty and earthy notes. A side of fresh smoked bacon and black pepper provide dark spice. Timely decanting is recommended, but watching it develop in a large glass is no less exciting.
Food recommendations from Sebastian Bordthäuser
- Mushroom ragout braised in red wine in puff pastry with autumnal bitter salads
- Halibut with beurre rouge and baked pumpkin with raz el hanout and orange oil
- Saddle of venison with peppered plums and apple-celery puree
Franz Keller Winery, Badbergstr. 44, 79235 Vogtsburg-Oberbergen im Kaiserstuhl, Germany