Grauburgunder Alte Reben “Terrassen” 2022

The Pinot Gris is grown on steep terraces on the Hessische Bergstrasse near Bensheim. The old vines are rooted in a mixture of deep but loose drifting sand on diorite. Spontaneous fermentation and ageing took place in a nine 500-litre Mercurey tonneaux. Because the wine was bottled unfiltered, it has become a Starkenburg country wine.

light gold

Unfortunately, you rarely get to taste a Pinot Gris like this. But it is all the nicer when the grape variety shows character from the very first moment. It smells of crunchy stone fruit, herbs, a little hay, green fennel and aniseed, as well as almonds and nuts. The ageing in tonneaux gives the wine an additional layer with subtle notes of just-ripened pineapple and a hint of wood, which merely resonates but does not dominate.

On the palate, the wine has finesse and elegance, paired with an underlying energy. At first, you don't get the impression that there is a lot of acidity here and the grape variety does not have large quantities of it. However, the acidity that is present makes the wine lively and fresh. It appears dry and full-bodied, which is emphasised by the extract and a slight extract sweetness. Here, too, there is a blend of local fruit, some pineapple, herbs and nuts, together with some apple peel. In the finish, melting, acidity, substance and juice combine with a fine saltiness to create a very well-balanced Burgundy that does not conform to the general cliché. Thank goodness! It's worth decanting.