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Artuke
In Rioja Alavesa, the brothers Arturo and Kike de Miguel Blanco are rewriting wine history. On 30 hectares, spread over 72 plots at altitudes of up to 720 metres, they vinify terroir-driven wines beyond the classic Rioja categories, following the Burgundian model. The organically cultivated vineyards, including the legendary "Finca de los Locos", are home to old Tempranillo vines as well as Graciano, Garnacha and a few white varieties. Matured in large wooden barrels, the wines are precise, fresh and impressively elegant. As a member of the "Rioja & Roll" movement and the Futuro Vinador association, the winery is one of the region's avant-garde. Winemaker portrait
More about Artuke
In tranquil Baños de Ebro, where the Ebro flows majestically through the Rioja Alavesa, a new vision of Rioja wine is emerging. The brothers Arturo and Kike de Miguel Blanco have initiated a remarkable change here, on the calcareous high plateaus of their homeland. Their story is characterised by foresight, precision craftsmanship and the unconditional will to bring the uniqueness of their terroir into the bottle. In a region that has long been dominated by large trading houses and their standardised production methods, they focus on individuality and uncompromising quality.
The legacy of the "madman"
The history of this extraordinary winery begins with a decision that was perceived as reckless: In the 1950s, the grandfather of the current owners acquired a plot of land lying fallow at a dizzying height - a move that earned him the nickname "El Loco". What was considered folly at the time turned out to be visionary. The extreme altitude, which was considered unsuitable for viticulture at the time, is now proving to be a strategic advantage in times of climate change.
The foresight of his grandfather still characterises the philosophy of the winery today. His grandchildren continue his legacy with scientific meticulousness. They have mapped each of their vineyards, analysed the soils and studied the microclimatic conditions. This groundwork forms the foundation for their terroir-driven winemaking.
Terroir mosaic of the Rioja Alavesa
The 30 hectares of vineyards are spread like a complex mosaic over 72 plots in the municipalities of Baños de Ebro, Ábalos, San Vicente de la Sonsierra and Samaniego. At altitudes between 550 and 720 metres, the vines thrive on a fascinating network of limestone, sandstone and scree. The cool nights at these altitudes give the wines their characteristic freshness and precision.
Of particular note is the "La Condenada" vineyard, which is over 100 years old and, with its blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha and the white Palomino variety, preserves the complexity of past viticultural culture. This vineyard, which the brothers saved from decay, is a living archive of Rioja history and produces one of the region's most fascinating wines.
The vineyards are cultivated exclusively organically, with an increasing focus on biodynamic principles. The often terraced vineyards do not allow for mechanisation - every step has to be done manually. This labour-intensive cultivation enables the brothers to look after each vine individually and precisely determine the optimum harvest time for each plot.
The art of careful winemaking
In the cellar, the brothers practise a philosophy of minimal intervention. Some of the hand-picked grapes are fermented as whole bunches, and in some cases they are still macerated traditionally with their feet. Spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts emphasises the authentic character of the wines. Artificial yeasts, excessive sulphurisation and aggressive filtration are deliberately avoided.
Ageing takes place mainly in 600-litre barrels, which give the wines room to develop without overpowering them with woody notes. The brothers favour shorter ageing periods than is usual in the region in order to preserve the freshness and terroir expression. For special cuvées, 3,500-litre foudres are also used, which enable even slower, gentler ageing.
A new vision of Rioja
The portfolio reflects the Burgundian philosophy of the house. The wines are not classified according to ageing time, but according to origin - from the fresh, accessible local wines to the characterful site wines and the complex parcel wines.
The "Artuke" base wine, an assemblage of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Viura, already shows the signature of the house: precision, freshness and accessibility. The "Pies Negros", composed from fifteen different plots in Ábalos, demonstrates the art of blending.
"El Escolladero", a single-vineyard wine from Ábalos, combines 85% Tempranillo and 15% Graciano from vines planted in 1950. The calcareous-clay soils at an altitude of 600 metres give the wine its characteristic minerality and complexity.
The flagship "La Condenada" comes from vines over a hundred years old from the "Camino del Ciego" vineyard. With an annual production of just 1,970 bottles, it is one of the estate's rarest and most sought-after wines. The complexity of the old blend, the mineral character of the sandstone soil and the precise vinification make it one of the most exciting wines in the region.
The new generation of Rioja
The wines of the de Miguel Blanco brothers mark a turning point in the history of Rioja. They show that great wines are not created through standardised ageing periods, but through a deep understanding of the characteristics of each individual parcel. As part of the "Rioja & Roll" movement, they are pioneers of a new generation of winemakers who are redefining the enormous potential of their region.
The international wine scene has long since reacted. Critics such as Luis Gutiérrez from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate have praised the enormous development of the winery in recent years. Membership of the renowned Futuro Vinador association emphasises the importance of the winery for the Spanish wine scene.
The future of Rioja lies in its past - the de Miguel Blanco brothers follow this conviction with each of their wines. They show that the region has far more to offer than heavy, wood-accentuated wines. Their interpretation of Rioja is precise, characterised by terroir and with an elegance that is unparalleled internationally. With their work, they are not only continuing the history of their family winery, but are also shaping a new era of Spanish wine.