Alte Reben Blanc de Noir 2019 – Bertram-Baltes

The Ahr is one of the smallest and northernmost wine-growing regions in Germany. It all too often flies under the radar, is never loud, but always does what it has always done Pinot Noir. It comprises and 560 hectares of vineyards, 85% of which are planted with Pinot Noir and, despite its location north of the 50th parallel, is considered an original red wine destination. The great capital of the Ahr are undoubtedly the best sites between Altenahr and Marienthal, the heart of which consist of weathered slate and greywacke and partly still have unpurified core pieces. Even if the rest of the world dreams of Burgundy as a great role model for Pinot Noir, the Ahr with its Pinot Noir from slate and new self-confidence takes its own place on the planet Pinot.

The grapes for this Blanc de Noir come from Pinot Noir plants that are older than 40 years. This is remarkable for the Ahr region, because traditionally, new plantings were made every 20 years, which is why the stock of old vine material is manageable. The compact Ritter clones come from slate-covered vineyards, from which the Spätburgunder single-vineyard wines usually come, too. With a low yield of 35 hectoliters/hectare, the whole clusters were pressed and fermented spontaneously with the vineyard's own yeasts in Assmann's Spessart oak half-barrels. After six months on the fine lees, this solitary Blanc de Noir was bottled for the first time in 2019. 

Color

Pale yellow with a silver edge and apricot reflections.

Nose

Under aristocratic reduction, aromas of light stone fruit, red-cheeked apples and pink grapefruit zests almost silently hide. With increasing aeration, smoky notes emerge as well as the typical slate note of the Ahr. The nose keeps a low profile, nothing forward about it, much like it's guarding a well-kept secret. The large, expensive glasses help to reveal it.

Mouth

From the first sip, it's clear that this is no ordinary rosé, but Blanc de Noir on steroids. With a superfine bite on the nose, it has an enormous inner tension with an almost electric vibration. The acidic nerve is ruler-drawn and, thanks to whole-cluster pressing, delicately coated in the finest phenolics, aromatically reminiscent of grapefruit. The reduction adds contemporary funk. Not an ounce of fat on the ribs yet juicy with breathtakingly low sipping resistance. A Blanc de Noir that's boxing in the big leagues right off the bat. Get in the ring!