It is a coherent part of the overall picture, in which the concentration of fruit and spice as well as the liveliness and the cool, fresh acidity are in the foreground. For this, similar to German vineyards, the cherry vinegar fly came and caused crop failures.
Tasting note from from 31.05.2017, Copyright Christoph Raffelt
Wine information
The Pinot Noir comes from the 18.06 hectare Premier Cru site Les Vergelesses in Pernand-Vergelesses. The terroir of Pernand-Vergelesses is similar to that of the Corton hill, characterized by siliceous and calcareous red marl, which has a high iron content. The clay content is around 30 % in Chandon's low-lying parcel. The domaine has 1.22 hectares facing east.
In 2014, François de Nicolay had to deal with hail again after the devastating 2013 hail, however, with much less. Instead, the cherry vinegar fly came, similar as in German vineyards, and caused crop failures. Yet, despite the adversities, the 2014 vintage turned out to be a beautiful, fruit-driven vintage. Les Vergelesses comes from 60-year-old vines, was picked between September 18 and 26, and meticulously sorted out. The wine was fermented with a proportion of 40 to 50 % whole grapes.
Color
medium cherry-red
Nose
In contrast to the much lighter and cherry-fruited Savigny, Les Vergelesses opens dark and spicy with a cool and already juicy ripe Pinot fruit on the nose. It is framed by earthy notes, underbrush and flowers. Wood plays only a minor role at Chandon de Briailles, where only perennial wood is used, albeit a decisive structuring one.
Mouth
Exactly this structure becomes clear on the palate, where the wood frames the fruit. The Pinot shows the power here that was only glimpsed in the aroma. Here, too, the undergrowth, the earth and a spiciness are found that make the wine seem rurally grounded, although the word "rustic" is avoided here because of its inappropriate connotations. Indeed, the rustic feel in this wine is more positive. It is a coherent part of the overall picture, in which above all the concentration of fruit and spice as well as the liveliness and the cool, fresh acidity are in the foreground.
Food recommendations by Christoph Raffelt
Crispy roasted wild duck with pickled cherries and polenta sticks
Maibock in salt dough with roasted porcini mushrooms and cassis jus
Pike perch roasted on the skin with beetroot and apple balsamic vinegar
