Metamorphosis of the Corvina

Today we are at Cà la Bionda in Veneto, in Valpolicella east of Lake Garda. This is the land of Amarone, the deep dark, intoxicating grape elixir. Alongside Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino, it is one of Italy’s three red wine kings and extraordinary in multiple respects. It begins with the grape varieties, whose names sound like incantations: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara… These are the protagonists of the great Amarone drama.

Carefully hand-harvested, the grapes of these indigenous varieties undergo a refinement process thousands of years old: Appassimento. Here the magic begins. In a warm, well-ventilated room beneath the roof of the estate house, the grapes are laid out in large wooden boxes. The floors of these boxes consist of loose bamboo slats, which allow optimal air circulation whilst maintaining minimal contact surface. Seemingly insignificant details, yet over the next 4-5 months they will determine success or failure, death or rebirth of the Amarone.

The grapes dry and part of the water contained in the berries evaporates. The „Angel’s Share“ of Amarone. After several months, highly concentrated, raisin-like berries emerge, which bear only distant resemblance to their original state. During the drying process, entirely new aromas are formed. Complex molecules that in the finished wine can evoke dried figs, herbal balm and leather. True alchemy.

The winemaker now decides on the timing and duration of the further steps. The grapes must be pressed and fermented together with the grape skins. Afterwards, maturation takes place in barrel. How long and whether in wooden barrel or stainless steel tank, contributes decisively to the character of the wine.

The result of these efforts is a fascinating yet contradictory beverage. On the palate initially sweet, yet unmistakably a dry red wine. Overripe cherries dried on the branch, dried plums, thyme and cedarwood. Young and mature at once. Without rough edges, yet with dominant character. And during the eternally long finish, then the famous bitter chocolate note. Amarone owes its name and pronounced addictive quality to this. The Cà La Bionda Amarone is, despite all its opulence, an elegant wine. This wine-become-opera diva carries minerality and fresh fruit across the entire score. With every sip warming, embracing. Guaranteed bliss is delivered by the combination with a piece of Parmesan or – true to origin – Monte Veronese.

The demigod of Valpolicella is Ripasso. Wine made from completely fresh or slightly dried grapes is united with the pomace of Amarone and ferments a second time. This marriage’s offspring combines the parental properties: on the one hand the typical aromas known from Amarone of dried fruit and herbs. Its sweet fullness and persistence. Yet the wine remains lean, fruit-forward and moderate in alcohol. The Cà La Bionda Ripasso „Malavoglia“ shows its full strength as a food companion. Mountain cheeses, Appenzell, Gruyère – even aged – are well served with it. Alongside seasonal fare from duck, goose and turkey.

The path to understanding the great metamorphosis begins with the Cà La Bionda Valpolicella Classico. This is the red wine from the typical Amarone varieties but without the alchemy. Harvested, fermented and matured in large wooden barrel. A thoroughly down-to-earth wine, whose kinship to Amarone is only to be guessed at. It is pale, delicately fruity and light-footed. The fresh acidity makes it an excellent partner to northern Italian cured meat and ham specialities.

One should embark on the journey beginning with the Valpolicella Classico, via the Ripasso to the Amarone. These wines should be served slightly cooler than usual.