The Metamorphosis of Corvina

Today we are at Cà la Bionda in the Veneto, in Valpolicella east of Lake Garda. This is Amarone country, home of that deep, dark and beguiling balsam of the vine. Alongside Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino it is one of Italy’s three kings of red wine, and remarkable in more ways than one. It starts with the grape varieties, whose names sound like incantations: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara… These are the leading ladies of the great Amarone drama.

Carefully harvested by hand, the grapes of these indigenous varieties undergo a refining process that is thousands of years old: appassimento. This is where the magic begins. In a warm, well-ventilated loft beneath the roof of the manor house, the grapes are laid out in large wooden crates. The bottoms of these crates are made of loose bamboo canes, which allow optimal air circulation while keeping the contact surface small. Seemingly trivial details, yet over the following four to five months they will decide between success and failure, between the death and the rebirth of the Amarone.

The grapes dry, and part of the water in the berries evaporates: the “angel’s share” of Amarone. After a few months, highly concentrated, raisin-like berries emerge that bear only a distant resemblance to their original state. The drying process creates entirely new aromas, complex molecules that in the finished wine may recall dried figs, herbal balsam and leather. True alchemy.

The winemaker now decides on the timing and duration of the next steps. The grapes have to be pressed and fermented together with their skins. Ageing in cask follows. How long, and whether in wood or stainless steel, plays a decisive part in shaping the character of the wine.

The result of all this effort is a drink as fascinating as it is contradictory. Sweet at first on the palate, yet unmistakably a dry red wine. Overripe cherries dried on the stalk, prunes, thyme and cedarwood. Youthful and mature at the same time. Without rough edges, yet with a commanding personality. And then, on the endlessly long finish, the famous note of bitter chocolate. Amarone owes its name to it, and its distinctly addictive quality too. For all its opulence, the Cà La Bionda Amarone is an elegant wine. This operatic diva in liquid form carries its minerality and fresh fruit through the entire score. Warming and embracing with every sip. Pure bliss is guaranteed when paired with a piece of Parmesan or, true to its origins, Monte Veronese.

The demigod of Valpolicella is Ripasso. Wine made from very fresh or lightly dried grapes is wedded to the pomace of the Amarone and so ferments a second time. The offspring of this marriage unites the qualities of both parents: on the one hand the typical aromas of dried fruit and herbs familiar from Amarone, along with its sweet richness and persistence. Yet the wine remains lean, fruit-driven and moderate in alcohol. The Cà La Bionda Ripasso „Malavoglia” shows its full strength at the table. Mountain cheese, Appenzeller and Gruyère, even well aged, are in good hands with it. So are seasonal dishes of duck, goose and turkey.

The path to understanding this great metamorphosis begins with the Cà La Bionda Valpolicella Classico. This is the red wine made from the classic Amarone varieties, but without the alchemy: harvested, fermented and aged in large wooden casks. A thoroughly down-to-earth wine whose kinship with Amarone can only just be sensed. It is pale, delicately fruity and light on its feet. Its fresh acidity makes it a fine partner for the cured sausages and hams of northern Italy.

So set out on the journey, starting with the Valpolicella Classico and moving via the Ripasso to the Amarone. These wines should be served a little cooler than usual.