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IT After we’ve wandered between the north and south of Burgundy, it’s now time to explore the monster that lies in the middle. Like a sleeping dragon, the Côte d’Or stretches from Dijon almost 50 km southwards to Chagny.
The name does not refer to the prices that some of its aged wines can reach, but rather to the colour in which the slopes are painted by the autumn leaves of the vines. Another common misconception is that the name is an abbreviation for Côte d’Orient, since the slopes where the vines grow are (mainly) oriented towards the east.
A monster, a dragon. Perhaps that’s a bit much, but everyone feels somewhat discouraged when speaking about one of the most complex and valuable wine regions in the world.
Let’s start with some cold facts, particularly the simple ones.
The Côte d’Or is divided viticulturally into two regions:
- The Côte de Nuits in the north, named after the town of Nuits-Saint-Georges.
- The Côte de Beaune in the south, named after the town of Beaune.
The former is home to some of the finest red wines made from Pinot Noir, whilst the latter produces not only red wines but also magnificent white wines from Chardonnay.
The soil consists mainly of Jurassic limestone, which benefits both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
End of the simple part – now the monstrosity begins.
The region has been puzzling wine geologists for a very long time.
As early as the 12th century, Cistercian and Benedictine monks were already aware of the differences between the individual crus. In the 14th and 15th centuries, the Dukes of Burgundy did everything possible to promote the wine development of the region.
In more recent times, soils and subsoils, winds and temperatures have been measured precisely.
And yet no one can definitively prove the connection between the incredible diversity of nuances that distinguish each parcel from another and the magnificent wines produced here.
It is a mixture of all factors.
The climate (mesoclimate) and soil of each cru (for example, oolitic limestone is more porous and provides better drainage compared to marl); the small valleys (so-called combes) that mix the soil composition and ultimately change the orientation of the slopes; and the decisions of each individual winemaker (whole or partially destemmed grapes, maceration, fermentation temperature, type of oak barrels and so on…).
And not to forget that the Côte d’Or is heavily influenced by weather variations, so each vintage can show great differences. In some years, Pinot Noir had difficulty ripening fully (2004, 2008, 2011), which forced producers to low yields. Some hot vintages can have more tannins (1976 and 1983). And then we have the incredibly fine vintages of 1978, 1990, 1999 and 2005.
But that’s still not enough, is it?
Let’s take a look at the classification of the different crus. Good luck.
The Grand and Premier Crus are located mainly between 250 and 300 metres above sea level, where the slopes are steeper and the topsoils become more stony.
There are 31 Grand Crus, mainly in the Côte de Nuits. They are distinguished by a single vineyard name (Montrachet, Chambertin, Echézeaux, to name just a few).
Premier Crus bear the name of the commune followed by that of the vineyard (e.g. Beaune-Les Greves) or, if it is a blend from different Premier Crus, the name of the commune plus the word „Premier Cru“ (e.g. Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru).
In third place comes the Appellation Communale, or village wines. They have the right to use the name of the commune (e.g. Marsannay), sometimes followed by the name of the specific vineyard in smaller print.
At the lowest level we have wines that may only be sold as „Bourgogne„.
Although this ranking system can give some indication of the quality of wines, we must remember that you can often find great bargains among the lower classifications. An example worth mentioning is the Hautes-Côtes region („de Beaune“ and „de Nuits“), which lies above 400m and is exposed to lower temperatures. The wines are light and elegant, and in some hot years such as 2009 they are truly exceptional.
The Côte d’Or is definitely a place where every wine lover can lose themselves forever and pleasantly.
The red wines can be heavier or more elegant, but they all display great concentration. Over time, the bouquet of soft red fruits becomes increasingly complex and reaches the French term sous-bois.
The white wines are characterised by their full body, balanced acidity and the persistence of aromas. The wood notes fade over time, making room for the delicacy of the fruit.
Ultimately, we love this complexity!
The endless differences between the parcels and the wonders of wine maturation are the little delights around our well-filled glasses.
Sous-bois
„Sous-bois“ is a French term translated into English as „forest floor“ or „undergrowth“. In the literal sense, it refers to the area beneath the tree canopy in a forest, including small trees, shrubs, herbs, grasses and the forest floor, which is normally characterised by shade, cooler temperatures and high humidity. The undergrowth is an important part of any forest ecosystem and provides habitat for a wide variety of organisms.
In the context of art, „sous-bois“ is often used to describe a genre of painting that depicts forest landscapes, particularly the dense vegetation beneath the tree canopy. This style was particularly popular with many painters of the 19th and early 20th centuries, including the Impressionists and Post-Impressionists such as Vincent van Gogh and Paul Cézanne.
In wine terminology, „sous-bois“ is used to describe certain aromas and flavour profiles that may evoke a forest floor or undergrowth. This term can refer to a range of scents and tastes, including earthy, mushroom, damp leaves, moss or wet soil.
These characteristics are often found in aged red wines, particularly those from Burgundy made from Pinot Noir grapes, but can also be present in other wines. „Sous-bois“ notes in a wine are often seen as a sign of complexity and can add depth to a wine’s flavour profile. As with all aspects of wine tasting, whether these characteristics are viewed as positive or negative may depend on personal preference.
A small compass from Living Wines.
Chavy-Chouet
Chavy-Chouet can be a wonderful starting point for exploring the possibilities the region has to offer.
Located in the Côte de Beaune, the winery today run by Romaric Chavy and his wife offers an impressive portfolio of vineyard sites. The outstanding parcels in Meursault („Les Narvaux“, „Les Charmes“, „Les Genevrières“ and the monopoly „Clos de Corvèes de Citeau“) are complemented by the Premier Crus „Les Chanlins“ in Pommard and „Les Folatières“ in Puligny-Montrachet. The „basic“ Bourgogne blanc and Bourgogne rouge are already of great value at a very affordable price, whilst the Bourgogne Aligoté „Les Maréchaux“ can give you an idea of this rediscovered indigenous grape variety.
I leave you the pleasure of browsing through this portfolio; I can only attempt to describe the style of Chavy-Chouet as fresh and precise, driven by power and finesse.
Despite his young age, Romaric Chavy has seven generations of winemakers behind him.
He manages vines that are up to 70 years old, and has been doing so for 30 years without herbicides and for several years organically.
Trapet Père & Fils
In the Côte de Nuits, Domaine Trapet Père et Fils has decided to extract the essence of the terroir of Gevrey-Chambertin.
The term terroir is far more than a place. It is the fusion of soil, climate and people.
The „Chambertin Grand Cru„ encompasses all of that in a single bottle. There is the prestige of a name that first appeared in documents from 630, but also the moment when Arthur Trapet decided to purchase his first parcel of land here in 1919. There is the complexity of a soil of marl-limestone with excellent clay. There is an entire, infinite universe.
„Cuvée Ostrea“ is a blend of the oldest vines within the winery. The name comes from the fossilised oyster Ostrea Acuminata, which was found in the parcels of Gevrey. The wine itself is a tribute to the soil, here to remind us how the land is the true principle of every winemaker’s work.
Domaine Trapet Père et Fils is a must for anyone wishing to explore the deep underworld that lies beneath Burgundy, particularly all the subtle nuances of Gevrey-Chambertin.
Darviot-Perrin
Back in the Côte de Beaune we find the Darviot-Perrin winery.
The Darviot-Perrin winery in the Côte de Beaune has its origins in the experience and lands that Didier Darviot received from his father-in-law and winemaking legend Pierre Perrin. Today, the 11-hectare estate encompasses some of the finest vineyards for Burgundy red and white wines. The focus is on biodynamic care of the vineyards and minimal intervention. The quality of the grapes is to be optimally preserved.
Didier retired in 2017 and handed over the management of the winery to his son Pierre-Antonin, who converted production to 100% biodynamic. The vines in the vineyards are on average 60 years old, some even over 90 years old, and are fertilised with organic compost.
The soils of Chassagne-Montrachet are somewhat less stony than those of Puligny, with more clay and slightly more marl. This produces Chardonnays that are somewhat fuller, juicier and fruitier than their neighbours.
The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Blanchots Dessus from Didier Darviot is a remarkable interplay of nature’s gifts and the winemaker’s craftsmanship. Born in the gravelly limestone soil of his small, venerable vineyard – affectionately known by locals as „Pieds du Montrachet“ – this wine captivates with its pronounced character.
Over the vintages, it has been consistently celebrated for its cool yet ripe note, its full-bodied richness, seductive mouthfeel and a vibrant, firm finish, with a hint of salinity providing a unique twist. The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Blanchots Dessus remains a captivating narrative of history, refined taste and sensual enjoyment.
We wish you much pleasure in the aftertaste!
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