The vinotheque filling is a Riesling Smaragd in the wine mountainswhich, in contrast to the 2002 Smaragd, which was bottled significantly earlier, was stored for a particularly long time in 3,500-liter oak barrels to reach the bottle after 16 years. The vineyard "Im Weingebirge" is a vineyard with a slight slope of 207 to 223 meters, which is located directly above Mautern and is solely owned by the Saahs family. The soil consists of paragneiss with a loess overlay. The location is very sunny with over 2,500 hours a year.
light golden yellow
The vinotheque fillings, indeed the entire late fillings of the Saahs family, are impressively fine wines at rest in themselves, which already in the aroma come up with a noblesse rather than expressiveness. One finds subtle notes of beeswax here at the outset, an herbal extract of the kind found in the best Genevers, plus notes of freshly sliced firm apricot and grated stone. With air, the yellow stone fruit becomes more opulent and deeper, and then the sixteen-year maturity also slowly becomes apparent.
If a Wachau Riesling can be described as classic, then this is it. 2002 Vinotheque. After 16 years in the bottle, this Riesling from Mauthern seems as virile and full of life as a youngster of the same age who has spent most of his life between the sports field and the grand piano in the music room. The wine is filled with great vibrancy and excitement. It stretches from the first creamy yet tightly woven sip across the palate into a long finish. Always present is a fine, all-connecting acidity, further a phenolic that gives the wine great seriousness, as well as a fan of earthy, stony and spicy notes that reach toward licorice and wax and provide plenty of substance. Throughout, the wine remains juicy and clean with subtle tones of stone and stone fruit. Fruit is not the main focus here. Structure and texture are what characterize this wine, transparency and clarity prevail here where all too often there is a focus on lush fruit. Despite the 16 years, one has the feeling that the wine is just at the beginning and not in the prime of its life - even though it is already a great pleasure to participate in its development.
Food recommendations by Christoph Raffelt
- Arctic char, clover, fig and beeswax
- Braised zucchini blossoms, spring vegetables and honey jelly
- Veal kidney with cress, capers and potatoes