Hello,
Two weeks ago, I was sitting with a sommelier friend. Blind tasting. Three perfectly aligned Zalto "Universal" glasses in front of us.
"Take a guess," he said.
First glass: Taut, mineral, citrus.
"Chablis," I said. He nodded.
Second glass: Creamy, complex, salty-long finish.
"Meursault?" I asked. He shook his head.
Third glass: Profound, almost meditative, endless.
"Hmm...Puligny?" He grinned.
All three were Chablis.
All three from our collection. And all three have about as much to do with the Chablis cliché (steel tank, green apple, done) as a Smart car has with a Mercedes S-Class.
Two Winemakers, Two Worlds
The big names in Chablis keep doing what they've always done. Good for them – their wines work. But two estates are showing right now that Kimmeridge clay can tell entirely different stories. Personal ones. Uncompromising ones.
Two examples from our portfolio show where the journey is heading:
Domaine de l'Enclos – Romain and Damien Bouchard have been doing their own thing since 2016. Organic from day one, 18 months on the lees for every wine, hand-harvesting goes without saying. The result: Chablis with grip and length. Their "À l'Ouest" without added sulfur has inviting aromas of yeast, bruised apple, and salt-preserved lemon – a sensual creaminess on the palate that you don't expect.
Château de Béru – Athénais de Béru has revived vineyards that had been dead since phylloxera. Biodynamics at 300 meters altitude, monopole vineyard with monastery walls from the 13th century. Her "Terroirs de Béru" shows what classic Chablis can do: delicate minerality, hints of oyster shells and sea breeze, paired with a captivating juiciness.
What Makes These Wines Different?
It's about time.
Giving time. While mainstream Chablis hits the market after six months, these winemakers give their wines 18 months, two years, sometimes more. This costs money. This ties up capital. This makes bankers nervous. But it creates depth.
Recognizing the moment. When is just ripe enough? Chablis lives on crystalline brilliance. Every day of too much sun costs tension. Every day too little – piercing acidity. When does the wine need air? When does it need rest? This precision in timing makes the difference between good and extraordinary.
Ignoring the zeitgeist. Against industrial wine. No efficiency at any cost. Hand-picking instead of machines. Wild yeasts instead of turbo yeast. Knowing every single vine.
The result? At l'Enclos, the long lees aging creates this incredible texture with richness – the youthful energy of the brothers, precise, modern. At Béru, profound aromas of apple and pear develop, underlaid with delicate toasted notes – Athénais's meditative calm, complex, with a long finish.
The Practical Part
If you're curious, I recommend:
To get acquainted: The village Chablis from both estates. Even here, their respective signatures are clearly evident.
For the aha moment: Domaine de l'Enclos "Fourchaume" 2022 – a Premier Cru that shows what modern Chablis can do.
For deep Chablis meditation: Château de Béru "Clos Béru Monopole" 2019 – five years of bottle age - now it's magical.
The Sunday Sermon
These wines demand attention. They want to be understood. They're the opposite of supermarket Chablis. But if you're ready for Chablis that surprises you, that challenges you, that rewards you – then you're in the right place.
Greetings from Berlin,
Lisa and the Team at
Living Wines – Lebendige Weine
P.S.: The stories we have yet to tell about Chablis would burst this newsletter at the seams. But in our Journal, you'll find a detailed winemaker and regional portrait of Chablis – if you'd like to dive deeper.
P.P.S.: The glass for the tasting (and generally my go-to glass for all occasions) is the Zalto Universal. I decant almost all white wines in the Denk Art 75. The younger vintages especially benefit noticeably from that extra bit of air.