Dear,
Syrah is a grape variety of extremes. On the steep granite slopes of the northern Rhône, it reveals itself as peppery-mineral and demands patience. In the heat of Roussillon, it can be transparent and refreshingly drinkable at just 10% alcohol. On the slate of Priorat, it struggles to survive yet still delivers indispensable structure.
This transformative ability makes Syrah perhaps the most exciting red grape variety of our time.
The DNA analysis of 1998 put an end to all romantic legends: Syrah doesn't come from Persia, but is a cross between the nearly forgotten southeastern French varieties Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche. Its thick-skinned berries with high anthocyanin content explain the ink-black color and enormous aging potential. What's crucial, however, is where and how it grows.
Northern Rhône: Maison Stephan
Syrah VdF 2022 - The New Elegance
Jean-Michel Stephan is an extremist in the best sense. Since 1997, he's worked completely without additives – no sulfur, no cultured yeasts, nothing. He farms his 2.5 hectares spread across sites around Condrieu, Verin, and Roussillon biodynamically.
This Syrah surprises with just 12.5% alcohol – a statement against the muscle-flexing of modern wines. Morello and sour cherry, elderberry meets damp forest floor, Mediterranean herbs like rosemary and juniper, plus a hint of dark chocolate. On the palate, acid-driven, precise fruit with silky flow. A prime example of the new, refreshingly drinkable style of the northern Rhône. (€24.50)
Northern Rhône: Domaine du Coulet
Cornas "Billes Noires" 2020 - Granite in Its Purest Form
Matthieu Barret, the "Little Bear" of Cornas, abolished all wooden barrels in 2006. Since then, his wine has aged exclusively in concrete eggs and ceramic amphorae.
"Billes Noires" (Black Marbles) shows intense dark berries, black cherries and blackberries, underlaid with black pepper, violets, and subtle roasted notes. On the palate, powerful and concentrated with firm tannins. The minerality of the granite soils typical of Cornas runs through the entire wine. At just 13% alcohol, it maintains remarkable elegance. (€99.00)
Southern Rhône: Domaine de Marcoux
Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2019 - Biodynamic Elegance
Sophie Armenier was one of the pioneers of biodynamics in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in 1990. Her Châteauneuf comes from 13 different parcels with varying soil types.
This wine literally explodes: black figs, wild blackberries, sweet raspberries and blood oranges, plus violets and Provençal herbs, fine leather and pepper. On the palate, mouth-filling with velvety texture – the 16% alcohol is perfectly integrated. The Syrah in the blend provides the backbone and dark spice notes. (€50.50)
Roussillon: Domaine Matassa
Tommy Ferriol 2024 - Revolution in a Glass
Tom Lubbe from New Zealand has achieved the impossible: in the heat of Roussillon, he harvests Syrah at just 10% potential alcohol through radical soil work.
This wine (70% Syrah, 30% Muscat) is a paradigm shift. After just four days of whole-cluster fermentation, it shows transparent garnet color, red currants, wild strawberries, fresh herbs and rose petals. At 10.5% alcohol, this is a "Vin de Soif" – a thirst wine that combines the lightness of Beaujolais with the complexity of Syrah.
Priorat: Clos i Terrasses
Laurel 2020 - Slate Meets Syrah
Daphne Glorian admits openly: "Syrah is honestly borderline in Priorat." Nevertheless, she plants 15% Syrah for her Laurel, deliberately on cooler north-facing slopes.
This Laurel shows fascinating transparency: blueberries, blackberries, cassis and black cherries, plus cinnamon, graphite, rose blossoms and a hint of black tea. The Syrah reveals itself with plums and black olive tapenade. At 15% alcohol, powerful but never heavy. (€49.50)
The Lesson of Syrah
What these five wines demonstrate: great Syrah doesn't emerge through extraction and power, but through understanding tension – between structure and elegance, between concentration and drinkability, between tradition and innovation.
The future belongs to winemakers who understand that Syrah's natural intensity needs restraint rather than amplification. Whether on the granite of the Rhône, the slate of Priorat, or in the surprising freshness of Roussillon – exceptional Syrah always speaks first of place, only then of the grape variety.
Santé and warmest regards from Berlin,
Maria and the team at
Lebendige Weine
P.S.: Syrah needs the right glass. The Zalto Universal 2-piece set allows the different characters of these wines to shine perfectly – from the delicate Matassa to the powerful Cornas.