On the steep slopes of the Rheingau, where the history of German viticulture is deeply inscribed in the slatey soil, Peter Jakob K\u00fchn cultivates his Riesling vines with an almost monastic devotion. The Hallgarten Alte Reben 2023 embodies the unadulterated language of the terroir - an eloquent dialogue between the barren phyllite slate and the aged vines that have driven their roots deep into this mineral narrative.<\/p>\n
The colour in the glass is a bright straw yellow with subtle green reflections that shimmer like sunlight through young leaves. The crystalline clarity of the wine reflects the precision with which K\u00fchn works in the vineyard - transparent, unadulterated, with the purity of a mountain stream.<\/p>\n
The first encounter with the nose reveals a fascinating restraint - typical of a young, biodynamically produced Riesling from K\u00fchn. Behind an initial hint of reduction, a multi-layered panorama slowly unfolds: fresh lime zest and unripe pears are framed by a striking stoniness that unmistakably bears the signature of the Hallgarten vineyards.<\/p>\n
With a little air, the aromatic spectrum expands into a fascinating herb garden: Lemon balm<\/strong> and Chervil<\/strong> dance with Kaffir lime leaves<\/strong>while echoes of Fennel seeds<\/strong> and Pea sprouts<\/strong> create a subtle connection to the soil. It's like taking a walk through a dewy herb garden planted on a slate slope.<\/p>\n On the palate, the wine demonstrates impressive structural precision. The vibrant acidity - razor-sharp at 7.0 g\/l - cuts through the slender body like a scalpel without ever appearing aggressive. With only 3.4 g\/l residual sugar, the unvarnished truth of the vintage and the terroir is revealed here.<\/p>\n What particularly characterises this wine is its tactile dimension - a phenolic texture that is driven not by fruit but by minerality. The wine challenges the palate, demands attention and rewards with a complexity that goes far beyond its price range. Its taut structure and salty minerality evoke the barrenness of the steep slate slopes, while the 12.5% alcohol is perfectly integrated and lends the wine a self-assured lightness.<\/p>\n The grapes for this remarkable Riesling come from various plots around Hallgarten - Hendelberg, Jungfer, Sch\u00f6nhell and W\u00fcrzgarten - which are located at a considerable 180 to 350 metres above sea level. The old vines are deeply rooted in phyllite slate and quartzite, which gives the wine its unmistakable mineral signature.<\/p>\n In the cellar, K\u00fchn follows a path of minimal intervention: the selectively hand-picked grapes are gently pressed as whole bunches over several hours. Spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts and ten months of ageing on the lees in large wooden barrels and stainless steel tanks until the end of August 2024 give the wine time to develop its full complexity.<\/p>\n The firm structure and herbal-spicy notes make this Riesling an ideal accompaniment to Nordic and Japanese cuisine. Smoked char<\/strong> with Dill sauce<\/strong> would emphasise the mineral qualities of the wine, while a Hamachi sashimi<\/strong> with Yuzu dressing<\/strong> would emphasise its citrusy notes. Also Asparagus<\/strong> with brown butter and lemon thyme<\/strong> or a Herb risotto<\/strong> with young goat's cheese<\/strong> would elegantly complement the vegetal nuances of the wine.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Palate<\/h3>\n
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