{"id":93944,"date":"2023-09-03T11:53:49","date_gmt":"2023-09-03T11:53:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/?p=93944"},"modified":"2026-10-08T07:13:34","modified_gmt":"2026-10-08T07:13:34","slug":"notizen-zum-naturwein-auf-sizilien","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/journal\/notizen-zum-naturwein-auf-sizilien\/","title":{"rendered":"Notes on Natural Wine in Sicily"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Natural winemakers are now well established on the island of Sicily. But let us make a brief digression to the people who have made this possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The history of wine, like much that concerns man, is not a straight line. It has many twists and turns, and each path is valuable in its own way. Sicily is no exception, or one can even consider it a prime example, thanks to its location in the Mediterranean. A crossroads of cultures, with diverse and rich ecosystems, the island has always been a place of experimentation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"565\" src=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury-1024x565.jpeg\" alt=\"Carta Nautica Del Mediterraneo Palazzo Ducale Venezia XVIIcentury\" class=\"wp-image-93946\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury-1024x565.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury-450x248.jpeg 450w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury-600x331.jpeg 600w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury-300x165.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury-768x423.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury-18x10.jpeg 18w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury-1000x551.jpeg 1000w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury-109x60.jpeg 109w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury-163x90.jpeg 163w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Carta-Nautica-Del-Mediterraneo_Palazzo_Ducale_Venezia_XVIIcentury.jpeg 1063w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Carta Nautica Del Mediterraneo - Palazzo Ducale Venezia XVII Century<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_82_2 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-black ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<div class=\"ez-toc-title-container\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Content<\/p>\n<span class=\"ez-toc-title-toggle\"><a href=\"#\" class=\"ez-toc-pull-right ez-toc-btn ez-toc-btn-xs ez-toc-btn-default ez-toc-toggle\" aria-label=\"Toggle Table of Content\"><span class=\"ez-toc-js-icon-con\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewbox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewbox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseprofile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/journal\/notizen-zum-naturwein-auf-sizilien\/#Qualitat_zuerst\" >Quality first<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/journal\/notizen-zum-naturwein-auf-sizilien\/#Pioniere_des_sizilianischen_Naturweines\" >Pioneers of Sicilian natural wine<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/journal\/notizen-zum-naturwein-auf-sizilien\/#Die_Atna-Chronik\" >The Etna Chronicle<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/journal\/notizen-zum-naturwein-auf-sizilien\/#Das_Erbe\" >The legacy<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Qualitat_zuerst\"><\/span>Quality first<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>In modern Sicilian viticulture, it was indeed Diego Planeta who led the region out of a (too) long history of mass wine and overproduction. In the second half of the 1970s, he began to advocate quality wine and also experimented with international grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah. The motto was: in order to make yourself noticed again at all, you have to compete with the same weapons. The weapons here were the international grape varieties. When he became president of the IRVV (Regional Institute of Vine and Wine) in 1985, the island's winegrowers were ready to open up to outside influences under his leadership. Sicily began its journey to becoming the internationally recognised quality wine region it is today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>While Diego Planeta experimented with international grape varieties, others took a closer look at what else the island had to offer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Pioniere_des_sizilianischen_Naturweines\"><\/span>Pioneers of Sicilian natural wine<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>In 1980, a group of friends, Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino Strano, founded the COS winery in Vittoria. They also travelled to Tuscany, Piedmont and France, but their focus was on the autochthonous grape varieties of their country, such as Frappato.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>More or less at the same time, another leading figure in Sicilian viticulture took over the family winery: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/marco-de-bartoli\/\">Marco de Bartoli<\/a>. Er glaubte an die Wiederherstellung der Qualit\u00e4t von Marsala, aber sein Traum war zu gro\u00df, um in die engen Grenzen des Gesetzes und der Appellazione-Regeln zu passen. Sein \u201cUr-Marsala\u201d, ein nicht angereicherter Wein durfte die Bezeichnung \u201cMarsala\u201d nicht auf der Flasche tragen. Sein Passito di Pantelleria, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/bukkuram-sole-d-agosto-passito-di-pantelleria-doc-2022-marco-de-bartoli\/\">Bukkuram<\/a>, on the other hand, was an immediate success: tradition-conscious, but fruitier and less oxidised.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Die_Atna-Chronik\"><\/span>The Etna Chronicle<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>As soon as the seeds of natural winemaking were sown, some people turned their eyes to new territories.<br>Benanti and his oenologist Salvo Foti start rediscovering Etna and Nerello Mascalese in 1988. Above all, Salvo Foti was more than an oenologist: his grandfather had vineyards on Etna, he felt this heritage and complemented the winemaking with love and respect for the mountain and its history . His own project <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/i-vigneri-di-salvo-foti\/\">\u201cI Vigneri\u201d<\/a> the idea of preserving vineyards leads from the Maestranza dei Vigneri (a group founded in Catania in 1435) to today's wine culture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"952\" height=\"942\" src=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite.jpg\" alt=\"Castellaro Etna officialwebsite\" class=\"wp-image-93947\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite.jpg 952w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite-450x445.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite-100x100.jpg 100w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite-600x594.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite-300x297.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite-768x760.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite-12x12.jpg 12w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite-32x32.jpg 32w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite-61x60.jpg 61w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Castellaro_Etna_officialwebsite-91x90.jpg 91w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 952px) 100vw, 952px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Castellaro Etna official website<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>As soon as the path was cleared, more people climbed the slopes of the mountain.<br>Angezogen vom wachsenden Ruhm der \u00c4tna-Weine, begannen Anfang 2000 einige \u201cAusl\u00e4nder\u201d wie de Grazia aus den USA, Franchetti aus Rom und Frank Cornelissen aus Belgien mit ihren eigenen Projekten.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In j\u00fcngster Zeit hat ein weiterer \u201cAusl\u00e4nder\u201d ein Weingut am \u00c4tna gegr\u00fcndet: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/massimo-lentsch\/\">Massimo Lentsch<\/a>.<br>Geboren in Bergamo, ist er einer von denen, die von der Insel \u201cadoptiert\u201d wurden. Massimo hat eindeutig ein Gesp\u00fcr f\u00fcr vulkanischen Boden. Er ist der Gr\u00fcnder der <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/tenuta-di-castellaro\/\">Tenuta di Castellaro<\/a> on the Lipari archipelago, where he does remarkable work with Corinto and Malvasia delle Lipari, two autochthonous grape varieties of the region. The new project on Etna began in 2018 and is already producing a great Nerello Mascalese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/enceladus-buried-underneath-mount-etna_Bernard-Picart_1731.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"684\" height=\"900\" src=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/enceladus-buried-underneath-mount-etna_Bernard-Picart_1731.jpeg\" alt=\"enceladus buried underneath mount etna Bernard Picart\" class=\"wp-image-93951\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/enceladus-buried-underneath-mount-etna_Bernard-Picart_1731.jpeg 684w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/enceladus-buried-underneath-mount-etna_Bernard-Picart_1731-450x592.jpeg 450w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/enceladus-buried-underneath-mount-etna_Bernard-Picart_1731-600x789.jpeg 600w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/enceladus-buried-underneath-mount-etna_Bernard-Picart_1731-228x300.jpeg 228w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/enceladus-buried-underneath-mount-etna_Bernard-Picart_1731-9x12.jpeg 9w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/enceladus-buried-underneath-mount-etna_Bernard-Picart_1731-46x60.jpeg 46w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/enceladus-buried-underneath-mount-etna_Bernard-Picart_1731-68x90.jpeg 68w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 684px) 100vw, 684px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Enceladus Buried Underneath Mount Etna - Bernard Picart<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Das_Erbe\"><\/span>The legacy<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/occhipinti\/\" title=\"Buy Occhipinti wine\">Arianna Occhipinti<\/a> needs no introduction. She took the lesson from her uncle Giusto Occhipinti (COS) and made the Frappato grape a symbol of the Vittoria terroir. It is probably the clearest example of how things can evolve with each generation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ihre \u201cEinstiegslinie\u201d <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/sp68-bianco-igt-sicilia-2025-occhipinti\/\">SP68 Bianco<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/sp68-rosso-igt-sicilia-2025-occhipinti\/\">SP68 Rosso<\/a> are affordable natural wine cult. Great are your single vineyard bottlings of Frappato. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/occhipinti-website_author-unknown-1.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"900\" height=\"599\" src=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/occhipinti-website_author-unknown-1.jpeg\" alt=\"occhipinti website author unknown\" class=\"wp-image-93949\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/occhipinti-website_author-unknown-1.jpeg 900w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/occhipinti-website_author-unknown-1-450x300.jpeg 450w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/occhipinti-website_author-unknown-1-600x399.jpeg 600w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/occhipinti-website_author-unknown-1-300x200.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/occhipinti-website_author-unknown-1-768x511.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/occhipinti-website_author-unknown-1-18x12.jpeg 18w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/occhipinti-website_author-unknown-1-90x60.jpeg 90w, https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/occhipinti-website_author-unknown-1-135x90.jpeg 135w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Ariana Occhipinti <br>(official website, author unknown)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>In Val di Mazara, in Camporeale, we found the winery \u00ab<a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/case-alte\/\" class=\"do_not_translate\" data-no-auto-translation=\"\">Case Alte<\/a>\u00bb. Here, the new generation places more emphasis on sustainability and organic farming, without refusing to engage in dialogue with the older generations who founded the winery. A virtuous cycle of interactions between past and present.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The winery <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/vino-lauria\/\">Vino Lauria<\/a> is located in the heart of Sicily, 65km southwest of Palermo in Alcamo. It was founded in 1958 by Vito Lauria's grandfather, but had to close in 1993 due to economic problems. Vito Lauria, deeply attached to his homeland, decided to renew the winery. After studying viticulture and oenology at the University of Udine and working for several years in northern Italy, he returned to Sicily in 2005. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>He worked in parallel in a local winery and prepared the reopening of the family business. In 2010, he brought his first wine to market. Vito focuses on organic farming, with the wines reflecting the character and specificity of his homeland. The wines of Vino Lauria are bottled without fining and filtration. Only minimal sulphur is added.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>With its light style, it represents the new Sicily and shows that filigree and freshness do not have to be foreign words even for Nero d'Avola. The best example of this is the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/zio-paolo-doc-sicilia-2024-vino-lauria\/\">Zio Paolo Nero d'Avola<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>At the end of this very brief overview of the current situation of natural wine in Sicily, I can only borrow Peter Seller's optimism as a gardener in Being There:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>\u201cSolange die Wurzeln nicht abgeschnitten werden, ist alles gut. Und im Garten wird alles gut sein\u201d.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right\">- Written by Jonathan Gobbi &amp; Mitya<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Natural winemakers are now well established on the island of Sicily. But let us make a brief digression to the people who made this possible. The history of wine, like much that concerns man, is not a straight line. It has many twists and turns, and each path is valuable in its own way. Sicily...&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div class=\"read-more-wrapper\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/journal\/notizen-zum-naturwein-auf-sizilien\/\" class=\"button button-secondary\" rel=\"bookmark\">Read More \u00bb<span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Notes on Natural Wine in Sicily<\/span><\/a><\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":93951,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"bwfblock_default_font":"","neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"[\"title\",\"meta\",\"content\",\"tags\",\"post-navigation\"]","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","neve_meta_reading_time":"","_themeisle_gutenberg_block_has_review":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[2711,3559,3861],"class_list":["post-93944","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-geschichte-des-weins","tag-jonathan-gobbi","tag-natural-wines-of-sicily","show-hover"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Notizen zum Naturwein auf Sizilien &#187; 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