{"id":73038,"date":"2021-11-07T11:02:38","date_gmt":"2021-11-07T11:02:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/?p=73038"},"modified":"2026-07-14T14:37:46","modified_gmt":"2026-07-14T14:37:46","slug":"muthenthaler-wanderung-in-der-wachau","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.lebendigeweine.de\/en\/journal\/muthenthaler-wanderung-in-der-wachau\/","title":{"rendered":"Muthenthaler \u2013 Hiking in the Wachau"},"content":{"rendered":"

Baroque furniture, heavy curtains, a gramophone playing classical music.
The stereotypical evening with the Viennese aristocracy goes like this or something similar. You stand on the balcony, smoke a cigarette and look out over the Danube. Suddenly the record scratches, everyone turns their heads towards the room, puzzled. And there they catch sight of a group of people dancing in a kind of trance to obscure underground techno. Unexpected? That's the right word for Muthenthaler wines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After leaving Vienna against the current of the Danube, we reach the geographical wine jewel called Wachau. Now it's time to leave the Danube behind, jump over the boat and put on our hiking boots. We will hike into the Spitzer Graben.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Wachautrilogy<\/a>
Marcus K\u00f6rner - Waking Trilogy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Das Weingut Muthenthaler liegt am Ende des Spitzer Grabens (und wir k\u00f6nnen auch sagen am Ende der Wachau) unter den beeindruckenden H\u00e4ngen der Bruck. Hier spielt die Donau keine Rolle mehr: das Klima ist auch im Sommer rau und kalt, die Weinberge sind hoch und in fast nacktem Stein verwurzelt. Es ist das, was man als \u201cheroischen Weinbau\u201d bezeichnen w\u00fcrde, aus Kraft und Beharrlichkeit gewoben.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unexpected? That is the right word for Muthenthaler wines.<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In the wines of Martin Muthenthaler<\/a> you see his almost stubborn insistence on making them in his own style, and at the same time the strength he inherited from the people who worked the soil before him. A perfect metaphor for this are the terraces made of stone walls. They are part of the characteristic landscape of the Spitzer Graben. Without them, it would not be possible to grow vines on these slippery hills. They are part of the tradition, created stone by stone as a tribute to this incredible terroir. And yet you need your own perseverance to walk up there to your place, whose name has been passed down orally by the older farmers for centuries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Wachautrilogy<\/a>
Marcus K\u00f6rner - Waking Trilogy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

To understand why a man does all this, you can simply taste the wines. This is the place for great Rieslings and Gr\u00fcner Veltliners: the cold weather and stony soil give them a deep and well-integrated acidity, combined with some smoky aromas that come from the slate. Each vineyard is special to this confusing area, but all the wines have that earthy, mysterious and deep touch (which I can only associate with an ash heap or the memory of alchemical rites) that dances perfectly with a lively and satisfying freshness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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