Kai Schätzel sees his way of cultivation as an answer to the questions posed to viticulture by global warming. As early as 2008, he began using sustainable, organic and biodynamic elements to manage his vineyards on the Rote Hang in order to raise self-sufficient and healthy vines. This includes slowing down the ripening process and using dry farming to bring the mountains into a new balance. The grapes for the wines are harvested according to the principle of the self-developed 'golden cut'. Around 90-100 days after blossoming, they are harvested in several passes exactly when their colour changes from green to golden yellow. At the winery, they are trampled underfoot before lying on the mash for a week and then being pressed. In a good 80% of all cases, there is no pre-clarification before the must is gravity-fed into lump and half-barrels, where it begins to ferment spontaneously and remains on the full lees until bottling. Ölberg is the wine that is always most accessible in its youth, building up a certain fruitiness and warmth in the glass.
Color
Bright straw yellow, bright and clear.
Nose
Despite its purely southern orientation, the nose of the 2020 Riesling Ölberg Grosses Gewächs by Kai Schätzel is more classic than expansively fruity. The wine appears reduced and spicy on the nose, until the restrained fruit dares to come forward with increasing aeration. Ground white pepper is followed by delicate citrus notes, wet stone and warm terracotta after a short summer rain. Distinctive herbal notes of borage, chervil and green sauce follow. Timely aeration is the weapon of choice for anticipated enjoyment at this youthful stage.
Mouth
With a sinewy entry, it initially shows its leptosome, sparse side until the feel changes the texture becomes creamier and flanked by herbaceous spicy and citrus aromas. Ethereally cool on the palate, the overtone range is garnished by lemon balm as the interface of the juvenile citrus and herbal notes. With a slender stature, it dances light-footedly as profoundly over the Zecher's palate, the fine-grained tannin enveloping the vibrant acidic nerve that accompanies it into the long, cool finish. Long-distance runner!
Food recommendations from Sebastian Bordthäuser
- Charred leeks on goat's sour cream with chive oil and roasted salted almonds
- Plaice in lemon butter with chives and chervil
- Pork belly from the tube with braised fennel
| Allergens | Contains sulfur |
|---|---|
| Winemaker | Schätzel |
| Country | Germany |
| Region | Rhinehessen |
| Type | |
| Vintage | |
| Variety | |
| Content | |
| Alcohol content | |
| Residual sweetness | ■□□□□ |
| Acid | 6,5 g/l |
| Drinking temperature | 12° |
| Manufacturer | Schätzel Winery, Obersdorfer Str. 34, 55283 Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany. Organic certificate: DE-ÖKO-039 |
