Salzberg 2017

Gernot Heinrich's Salzberg pays tribute to one of the oldest and most renowned hillside sites in Gols. The southwest-facing vineyards are adorned with glacial, red terrace gravel and fine-grained, sandy-loamy sedimentary soil. A versatile blend that is optimally brought out through the use of Blaufränkisch and Merlot.

The two grape varieties share the limelight equally. Biodynamic cultivation follows the principles of respect, as does careful hand harvesting between mid-September and early October. After a spontaneous fermentation, the mash rests in wooden fermentation racks for three weeks before being processed with care in a basket press. A stay of 29 months in 500-litre oak barrels serves as the final stage before bottling.

The wine presents itself in a deep dark black red that contrasts with delicate purple brightenings at the rim. The nose experiences an almost mystical depth through the fruit richness of dark blackberries, blueberries, sloes and figs, which cleverly interweaves with aromas of liquorice, wood smoke, toasted bread and dominoes. The wine is given a refreshing twist by the cool notes of eucalyptus and tarragon.

On the palate, the 2017 Salzberg is fleshy, spicy and intense, but always lively and harmonious. Here, too, the dark fruit dominates, supported by a dense, fine-grained tannin structure and a very invigorating acidity. The whole is accompanied by a remarkable coolness that emphasises the character of this exquisite drop. The drinking maturity has just begun. The patient connoisseur allows it some more time to mature, while the impatient one decants it two hours before drinking and uses generous glasses.

This rich and complex wine requires dishes that do it justice. A combination with mushroom ravioli accompanied by pointed cabbage and beetroot cooked in sea salt with parsley is impressive. The strong flavour intensity of this wine is excellently underlined by a grilled duck confit served with salsify and watercress. Also recommended is a saddle of hare garnished with glazed prunes, root vegetables and tarragon.