The Ölberg is the southernmost vineyard on the Rote Hang, whose name can be traced back to a monastery once located there. Situated at 80-170m above sea level with a slope of up to 65% and a clear east-west orientation in the middle section, it is the only purely southern site of the house on the Roter Hang. Strongly fissured with a porous and comparatively permeable surface, its red, loamy weathered soils replace the humus layer, act as a heat reservoir in summer and always produce optimally pysiologically ripe grapes. The wines of the Ölberg are fermented spontaneously by hand after strict selection and aged in wooden barrels.
Pale straw yellow with green reflections and silver tapered rim.
Under initial light reduction note with tender smoky accents slumbers the concise minerality of the oil mountain, which reminds of ground oyster shells. The fruit is citrus sketched, orange oil and the white of the shells mingle with tart flavors of grapefruit and a good helping of crumbly, stewed apples. Underpinned by olive leaf and rosemary, Kühling Gillot's 2019 Olive Mountain seems more on the herbal side, though that will shift with time. Tasted at the GG Premiere in Wiesbaden, the wines are always blood young and speak softly rather than loudly. The Ölberg, however, speaks of a long life and demands the big glasses in any case.
Citrus-fresh on the nose, it is reminiscent of tangerines and oranges, whose oils give it its distinctive viscous feel. Aromatically, the essences of the fruit are reflected far more clearly than on the nose, nestling silkily around the straight-line axis of the oil mound. With distinctive 2019 acidity, it is accurately parted, always contoured by delicate herbal notes. Tidy with an extract-sweet core at the tip of the tongue, it oscillates between aromatic, citrusy phenolics with notes of dark chocolate and a mineral, almost ethereally cool finish.
Food recommendations from Sebastian Bordthäuser
- Orange salad with fennel, black olives and wild fennel pollen
- Grilled octopus with Passe Pierre seaweed in orange oil
- Pork belly with oyster emulsion and white bean puree in thyme stock
Winery Carolin Spanier-Gillot, Oelmühlstr. 25, 55294 Bodenheim/Rheinhessen / Germany, organic certificate: DE-ÖKO-039