Riesling Ellergrub “Grosse Eule” 2020

Konstantin Weiser and his partner Alexandra Künstler have been making steep-slope wines since 2005. It all began with a small plot in the Ellergrub, which they initially developed with Daniel Vollenweider until the current winery was found in 2008. The pure Riesling winery initially produced exclusively residually sweet wines. Today, the 4.2 hectares of production are divided into dry and residually sweet, with most of the wines being vinified semi-dry and coming exclusively from the Ellergub. The concise phenolic is a guiding theme of Weiser-Künstler's wines, which are always contoured by noble bitters in addition to their concise acidity.

To save the old cultural landscape and the steep slopes, Weiser artists are members of the Klitzekleiner Ring. You could call it preservation by drinking. A good and important mission.

Bright yellow, luminous and clear.

Closed, firm and punchy, the 2020 Great Owl by Weiser-Künstler shows itself on the nose and, in its youthful stage, unmistakably demands the decanter. With increasing aeration, it begins to tell the story, not that it gets into chatter, yet with a firm voice Of camomile and vegetal notes of lemon balm and goutweed, fenugreek, mace and yellow pears. Underneath everything, the ever-present minerality of the slate pulsates like a gentle tremor and lends it its own sonorous, booming bass.

Phenolic framed, the owl shows itself aromatically tonic and reminds at first of tea, but again camomile, sage, but also herbal and green tea. The bitter substances work stimulatingly and give it its distinctive feel with a powdery grip and delicate astringency. You look in vain for fruit here, but are rather forced to the bottom of the Ellergrub - this must be what it feels like to lick slate. The large, expensive glasses and the upscale cuisine thank you for the attention.