The exceptional Blaufränkisch called Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben is a real gem from the oldest and most exquisite vineyards. The Lutzmannsburg plateau, once of volcanic origin, is nowadays a melting pot of different layers, including calcareous sandstone, loam, sand and clay as well as volcanic deposits. The vines, between 85 and 110 years old, deliver a full complexity of aromas. A weighty proportion of the grapes were fermented, including the raisins, and then matured in open wooden vats. After careful pressing, the wine rested on its lees in 500- and 600-litre barrels for a good year. The production does without fining and filtration and uses only little sulphite.
The garnet red of the wine with brick red nuances at the rim is impenetrably deep.
The high quality of the 2013 Blaufränkisch Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben is already apparent in the first aroma. The bouquet of this wine reveals elegance and precision, freshness and juiciness, strength and depth, liveliness and harmony in perfect balance. One detects aromas of juicy sour cherries, notes of bitter almond, ripe plums and young damsons, blackberries, elderberries and mulberries with hints of cassis and liquorice. Fresh berries, blood orange juice, pomelo and juicy stone fruit refresh the nose, framed by earthy tones, peat and a hint of ripe soy sauce. The aroma of violet flowers rises in the background.
The wine unfolds on the palate muscular, generous and yet at the same time floating and ethereal. Compared to the powerful 2011, the 2013 seems light on its feet without losing its down-to-earthness. On the palate, it emphasises red currants, cranberries and barberries, sour cherries and wild cherries, a little plum and cassis. In addition, there is a hint of soy sauce matured in wooden barrels, some ink and iron, a hint of peat and again refreshing notes of mint, flowers and chalk. All embedded in a fine, striking tannin and infused with a perfect acidity that soaks through everything without imposing itself.
For side dishes, we recommend combining Blaufränkisch Lutzmannsburg with beetroot garnished with poppy seeds, black pepper and cassis, or serving it with truffled pigeon breast on a bed of chard. Pike perch wrapped in bacon, accompanied by lentils and caramelised apple, also harmonises wonderfully with this wine.
Moric Winery, Kirchengasse 3, A-7051 Großhöflein, Austria