At Hidden Treasures/A Moric Project Roland Velich promotes the regions, i.e. wines and vintners from areas of Hungary that are still far too unknown. In this case, it is about Lake Balaton and Villa Tolnay on the Csobánc volcano north of Lake Balaton. This is an area characterised by basalt and in parts also by sediments from the Pannonian Sea. The winery was founded in 2004 by the Swiss Philipp Oser and is located in the former villa of the actress Klari Tolnay. He named the winery in her honour. On Csobánc, one of the most even volcanoes in Hungary, wine has been cultivated since Roman times. In the course of the last centuries, a long Riesling tradition has developed at Lake Balaton. Soils of volcanic origin and sediments from the Pannonian Sea give the wines a distinctive expression. Today, the winery covers 20 hectares. Most of it lies directly around the winery building.
medium straw yellow
At Riesling/Furmint by Roland Velich, both grape varieties cross-fertilise each other. They appear floral-scented and almost ethereal with the bright and clear notes of herbs, of citrus and lime zest, a little gum rub, a little yellow stone fruit, but even more of green stone fruit with a hint of stone and smoke over the fruit.
On the palate, the wine appears precise, sinewy and almost austere. With air, it becomes highly elegant and beguilingly fine, deep and salty, herbal and melting, but with a vibrating minerality and acidity structure, a deep saltiness and herbiness, but also with body and melting. The fruit seems a little more yellow on the palate than on the nose and remains bright, the wine grippy and electrifying.
Food recommendations by Christoph Raffelt
- Fresh goat cheese with Meyer lemon chutney, aubergine cream and sesame seeds
- Grilled prawn with mirin beurre blanc and watercress salad
- Grilled belly rib of Duroc with Szechuan pepper and fermented young celeriac