Approx. 70 % of the grapes of the Blaufränkisch come from Lutzmannsburg, the rest are distributed among the northern Burgenland communities of Zagersdorf, Sankt Georgen and Grosshöflein. The majority of the grapes are grown on calcareous sediments - from sandy to extremely clayey consistencies to shell limestone and chalk soils - of the Pannonian Sea. 15 % of Blaufränkisch have been fermented with the stems as whole clusters. The maceration took place spontaneously, lasted 18 to 22 days and was carried out in stainless steel and open vats. Ageing took place in 500 to 4500 litre barrels for 15 months. Bottling took place in January 2022. There was no fining, no filtration and only small amounts of sulphites.
intense purple to violet
Freshness, precision, finesse and juiciness, which first come to mind when I hear the Blaufränkisch 2020 in the large glass, because that is where it belongs, even if it is Moric's entry-level wine, the estate wine, so to speak. But it already has class and complexity when the bouquet of violet blossoms, sour and black cherries, a few crunchy plums, pomegranate juice and some elderberries mingle with crushed cool rock, some white pepper and two or three black olives.
On the palate, this wine is a revelation. That is, it would be if the bouquet did not already foreshadow so much. The Blaufränkisch is a wine that is much more than a business card of Roland Velich, but actually just that. For all that one can expect from the Reserve or later at the Lutzmannsburg or Neckenmarkt is already in here. It is a joy to drink, because the wine runs over the tongue as transparently and clearly as a white wine. The fresh acidity, which is inherent in Blaufränkisch anyway, contributes to this, of course, but seems particularly lively here. The tannin distinguishes the wine from a white and also shows edge here, as one would expect from such a young, impetuous wine. A little air in the glass smoothes it out, but it gives a lot of pleasure even as it is. The Blaufränkisch is a wine that you want to drink in big gulps, and it doesn't matter whether you want to drink it in a less concentrated way in a large group or whether you want to study it intensively and discover its many facets. It is actually an incredible wine for the price.
Food recommendations by Christoph Raffelt
- Braised and roasted cauliflower with raz el hanout and pickled cherries
- Venison steak with blackberry jus, tahini, labneh and roasted nuts
- Baked sweetbreads in walnut butter with beetroot mash
Moric Winery, Kirchengasse 3, A-7051 Großhöflein, Austria