Loius Trapet describes the creation of a local wine from Gevrey-Chambertin with its 450 hectares and the so different terroirs as squaring the circle. Power and finesse are brought together here. Jean Louis uses three hectares with eight plots as a basis. This starts with Dérée halfway up the hill towards the small village of Brochon - where a powerful wine grows. The Champérrier parcel right next to Dérée provides density and texture. At the old château and in the centre of Gevrey is the Clos de Combe vineyard, enclosed by a dry stone wall. Towards the Grand Crus, the Petite Jouise, Paisseaux and Vigne Belle sites point.
For Jean Louis Trapet, the vintage is one of the best in the history of the domaine. This assessment is supported by the fact that the 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru with the highest score of any wine from Neal Martin's 2018 tasting for Vinous has emerged. The Latricières-Chambertin was only just behind. The year began with an early strong budbreak, which was put into perspective a little later by a wet May bringing mildew and naturally limiting the amount. It then became hot and dry, but the heavy spring rains had replenished the vineyards' water stores. Some rain was added in July, and it remained warm, even hot and dry in places, until the harvest on September 4. The harvest took place under ideal conditions until 12 September. The only challenge One had to be quick; because within five days the sugar content of the berries increased by 25 grams. As the berries were thick-skinned, the seeds were ripe and the saps were well wooded, Jean Louis opted for a 50 % whole cluster fermentation. The raisins brought more structure and some coolness to the wine, and the slow release of the sugars provided finesse. At Gevrey-Chambertin Village about 20 % of new wood was used.
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Village offers an attractive nose and is in fact something like squaring the circle when it comes to combining northern and southern local sites, power and finesse. The wine opens with sweet yeast combined with sweet cherries and candied rose petals. But then sour cherries join in and balance out the initial sweet impression. The fruit is accompanied by slightly earthy notes, undergrowth and dry wood.
On the palate, the local wine delivers a ripe and slightly sweet fruit of crushed wild strawberries and raspberries, cherries and plums. The fruit is infused with a fine ripe acidity. The noticeable but fine tannin provides elegance in this ripe and quite expressive Gevrey-Chambertin.
Food recommendations by Christoph Raffelt
- Moroccan vegetable tagine with harissa and couscous
- Dry-aged duck breast, pickled and roasted endive, hazelnut cream and quince
- Roasted fillet of beef, taleggio, pepper sauce and creamed spinach
Trapet Père & Fils
Domaine Trapet, 53 route de Beaune, 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin / France, Organic certificate: FR-BIO-01