Friardel 2017

Tasting note by Christoph Raffelt from 15.09.2018, Copyright Christoph Raffelt

Benoit Lesuffleur's family has been growing apples and pears in Normandy for several generations. For about 50 years, they have been selling the yield to large cider producers. Benoit Lesuffleur, just 30 years old, is a wine broker in Paris. Among others, he represents the Fourrier, Henri Germain and Champagne Tarlant houses in the Paris trade and in gastronomy. From Benoit Tarlant, his namesake, he knows very well how top champagne is produced, so he had the goal to vinify cider on this level, too. However, his family was strictly against it for years. But now he has convinced them. His ciders are actually produced according to the traditional method from twelve different sweet, sour and tannin-strong apple varieties. Of course, the work is done by hand, the 16 hectares of land are in conversion to organic or biodynamic cultivation, the apple juice is spontaneously fermented, and after blending the different varieties, the cider stays for twelve months. sur lattes.

Friardel is a plantation in the Norman commune of Friardel in the Calvados region. It was acquired by Benoit's grandfather in the 1960s. The half-stems already existing there were quite old at that time and are now gradually replaced by Benoit, whereas the share of old stems is always to predominate. The cuvée consists of 50 % of the bitter varieties Mettais and Frèquin, 36 % of the bittersweet varieties Binet rouge and Bisquet, and 14 % of high acid varieties like Rambeau and René Martin. They grow on a soil of blue flint with a chalky-chalky subsoil.

Amber colour with golden and orange reflections, clear perlage, striking mousseaux.

The Friardel is dark and spicy. The apples leave a tart and ripe impression. Totally musty and invitingly sweet. Caramelised quince and a fine honey note complement this wonderfully. Ingenious! Beeswax, caramel and roasted nuts come in support. Baked stone fruit and butterscotch provide spice, feel-good aromas and warmth. Garden herbs, wet stone and orange peel work in the background. Dried oranges and a fine breeze of cinnamon also reveal themselves.

The mousseaux fills the palate at first. With the onset of acidity, it slowly dissolves and leads into a tart, dry finish. A very good balance of bitter and sweet accents. These two tastes are known to work particularly well in combination with plenty of scope for corner points. The fruit comes through clearly and recalls the impressions gained from the nose. Especially the wax and honey notes play ping-pong with orange and the baked stone fruit on the palate. Beautifully marked by caramel and pleasantly fruity at the same time.