Parajes de Callejo 2019

Sebastian Bordhäuser, 2020

At the age of 16, Félix Callejo had to take over the winery after the sudden death of his father. Together with his wife Pilar, he raised the wines of the Ribera del Duero to a new level, which condensed in 1989 in the foundation of the current estate. Today, the winery in the province of Burgos is run by their four children. The wines thrive at altitudes between 830-950 metres above sea level, which, combined with the resulting temperature amplitudes and the lean sandy and limestone soils, gives the region the best conditions for elegant and fine Ribera wines. The Parajes de Callejo is a blend of 95% Tinto Fino and 5% white Albillo Mayor, which is traditionally blended to stabilise the colour. The wine from around 25-year-old vines was aged for 12 months in French oak and corresponds to a crianza in terms of quality.

Bright cherry red with delicate violet hints

With the first nose, it already sets an exclamation mark. The 2019 Parajes de Callejo lives from delicate, rather acidic fruit, paired with light spice. Raspberry, blackberry, but much more plum and fig find their way into the glass. The fruit is surrounded by dried herbs and a clear, chalky note. A nuance of cold smoke is wonderfully complementary. The differences in temperature between day and night provide not only the fruit but also filigree accents. Grated dark chocolate and a little tonka bean give it a sensual, earthy tone. Black pepper, a little cinnamon and plenty of juniper are the spicy players in this ensemble.

On the palate, the 2019 Parajes de Callejo is elegant, fresh and surprisingly light. The cuvée of Tempranillo with parts of the white Albillo variety is juicy and harmonious. With a lot of esprit and good drinking flow, it offers great drinking pleasure at its price level. The fruit is small-berried. Above all, an intense note of sour cherry leaves its mark on the finish. Overall, it appears cool and lean. The acidity plays cat and mouse with the fruit. It is taut and extremely linear. With a lot of finesse, it goes into an exceptionally bright-toned finish.