Cuvée “5 Sens” Brut Nature 2014

The 5 Sens can be considered a little bit as the quintessence of Olivier Horiot. Five different terroirs from Les Riceys in the south of Champagne flow into this assemblage. Five grape varieties are used. Old vines of the rare Arbanne, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc. In five barrels, the wines undergo a slow fermentation and maturation with the yeast. In July 2015, the assemblage was then drawn to the bottle for the second fermentation. As Brut Nature, of course, without dosage. For Oliver Horiot, the five elements are water, air, earth, and fire, supplemented by esprit. The degorgement was on November 13, 2019.

Bright lemon yellow, very fine perlage

The first nose shows a combination of yeast, maturity and depth. Marked by richness of facets, it makes you think in many directions. Oyster shell, wet chalk and flint as well as a little sea breeze give rise to great expectations of the purism and sparseness of this wine. Lemon zest and ginger are aromatically prominent. A bit of lees, salted caramel and brittle are evident but not overbearing. Green and yellow apples, caramelized quince and almonds trade blows with dried herbs like marjoram and oregano.

On the nose, it is very ambivalent and that makes it so incredibly exciting. The mousseux provides the 5 Sens with plenty of melt and fullness. But if you fight past it, it lives on pronounced barrenness and minerality. Class. The yeasty and nutty flavors from the bakery return in small doses. Apple, lemon and ginger keep breaking through this delightfully. This is beautifully linear, no frills and no compromises.

Olivier Horiot knows how to skillfully combine elegance and depth. 5 Sens is carefree easy to understand and at the same time surrounded by a special aura. Can Champagne please always taste like this?