The village of Auxey-Duresses is in the immediate vicinity of Meursault. The monopoly site, after which the Domaine is also, extends directly behind the winery up the hill. Jean-Marc Roulot has his site in the direct neighbourhood. The proportion of new wooden barrels is less than 5%. Aging is in barrel for 12-15 months. In what is supposed to be a warm vintage, this well-balanced Chardonnay has managed to fill with a commendable 12 % by volume.
Sparkling golden yellow, delicate green reflections
The first nose from the monopollage in Auxey-Duresses conveys pure understatement. Chardonnay as a grape variety does not impose itself particularly, but conveys its origin in the best way. An earthy tone, paired with dried herbs, eventually escalates into yellow fruitiness. Ripe apricots, a little candied pineapple and lemon zest. A nuance of toasted almonds and especially flint come to their fully deserved platform with a little more oxygen. A floral note reminds me of cloves. As it progresses, a thought of freshly peeled tangerines increasingly develops. "bitter sweet symphony...". Promisingly, I look forward to the first sip.
And he just delivers.
On the palate, it appears taut and sparse. The chalky subsoil comes through wonderfully. A well-integrated acid structure stretches it fabulously into the length. In the finish, it develops a phenolic pressure, which escalates into pure minerality. And this is skilfully underpinned by a delicate melting. The low alcohol combined with this near-perfect acid framework and cool feel create a sublime and elegant wine. This already gives me great pleasure today, but also gives hope for great things in the future. A really strong piece of wine.
Food recommendations from Marian Henß
- Turbot fried in oil, creamy polenta, beurre blanc
- Tortellini with ricotta-pepper filling, roasted hazelnuts and parmesan cheese
- Pork tenderloin cooked in herb coat, steamed chard and bacon cream sauce
Clos du Moulin aux Moines
Clos du Moulin aux Moines, 21190 Auxey-Duresses / France, Organic certificate: FR-BIO-01